Sunday, December 2, 2012

December 2, 2012: Moving on...to WordPress

I knew it was too good to be true! Blogspot offers free blogging and picture upload, packages it in an attractive website and doesn't clutter it up with ads. CATCH: If you want to post more than a few hundred photos, better dig the change out of your couch.

So rather than paying a measly $2.50 a month, I'm taking my story to WordPress, a slightly-more-complex website with unlimited pictures.

So, if you want to keep up with the breathtaking, thrilling tales of Grolar Bear on the PCT, click here: http://anotherflatfootedadventure.wordpress.com/

August 14, 2012 - Yellowjackets, Skeeters and Leeches, Oh My!

Day 59
Trapper Creek Campground
On PCT detour trail
Willamette National Forest
Miles: 27
Trip: 1055

(In the interest of efficiency and maximizing sleep hours, tonight's journal interest will be in bullet point form)

Trail Mix
  • Insect invasion of tent. Yellowjacket attack!
  • Mosquitoes revenge: worst since Northern Yosemite. DEET was applied without hesitation. Upside: mosquitoes are excellent motivation for fast hiking.
  •  Took an alternate route off of PCT (aka shortcut). Flatter, wetter, fewer miles. No shame, only gain.
  • Snausage swayed older hiker named Just Bill to take alternate route. I think he hoped for company. He wasn't disappointed - invited Just Bill to join us for lunch.
  • Lunched with leeches at lake. No swim for me, thanks. Leeches looked like tiny eels, almost six inches long! Mosquitoes got enough blood from me, leeches get none.
  • Enjoyed talking with Just Bill. Animated, enthusiastic, active - hope to be that way at 70! No lack of respect for senior citizen thru-hiking gentlemen. Just wish I saw more Golden Girls!
  • Campground feels like luxury hotel: cold tap water, outhouse, picnic table...and OCEANS of huckleberries. Never seen bushes so dense and heavy with berries.  Can't wait to harvest breakfast!
  • Still feelin' speedy. Hope not to burn out before Bend. So far no 30-miler, but there are still three days of hiking left!
Shaggy says:

   The mosquitoes struck back this morning with a vengeance. It seems that hundreds were waiting for us to get up and out of our tent. I didn't deal with them for long, reached for the deet in no time. Snausage was out of camp early and we left shortly after. Its honestly hard to enjoy camp with hundreds of mosquitoes buzzing around your face.
   Made great time to Windego Pass, where I met Just Bill. Hotshot showed up as well. We then had to decide weather to take the Crescent Lake alternate or not. Snausage did a really good job convincing us to take the alternate, promising less mosquitoes, easier trail, more water, and 7 less miles. We were sold. Today I really enjoyed hiking with Snausage, Just Bill, and of course Grolar Bear.
   The alternate was alright. Flat for the most part, very easy miles. But the dust was horrendous. These trails are used by horses a bunch, I think they tear up the trail pretty good. But we had plenty of water and very few mosquitoes.
   I was exhausted all day today. I woke up last night needing to pee, eat, and drink water. Of course I waited for over an hour before doing any of that, so lost a lot of sleep.
    These days seem to fly by. I often get completely lost in thought while hiking by myself. I no longer think about the motion of walking, it mostly just happens. The miles fly by and I feel great.
   We made it to a campground around 7 pm. I think we hiked nearly 29 miles today. This campground along Trapper Creek has huckleberries everywhere. Groaler Bear, Snausage, and myself are paying $15 for this campsite. I would have hesitated but I was exhausted and the huckleberries are amazing. This is the most I have ever seen, and I will certainly eat my $5 worth of berries tomorrow morning.
    We have 77 miles to Bend. Plan to get there on Friday. If we do make it, we will have hiked over 325 miles in just 12 days. That will be a new record for me, and is amazing for Lauren too. Time for some much needed rest.

Monday, November 26, 2012

August 13, 2012 - Music Spinach and Let-Down BBQ

Day 58
Above Six Horses Springs
Miles: 25
Trip: 1028

I stayed up tonight, socializing with Hotshot, Snausage and Shaggy so this entry will be short. I want to get hiking by 7am tomorrow, hopefully regain the strong rhythm I had pumping today. For a full 22 miles, I felt like the trail was a competition on my home track, and the race was mine. From 8am on, my pace was around three miles an hour - very speedy for me. I hate to give technology so much credit (since a well-rested, well-fed body did all the physical work), but my mental state was all music-enhanced. Listening to my iPod transformed a stop-and-go, inconsistent pace into a steady steam engine stride. Music may just be my spinach.

We also got the treat of Thielsen Peak and Creek, both reminiscent of bygone Sierra days. The terrain after that was more vanilla, but still pretty and very smooth hiking. Even a little snow on the trail for variety!

We hit the Oregon/Washington PCT highpoint (not nearly Forrester caliber, but still a respectable 7,560 feet) and tried calling Andrew's friends d=rt and Tree. Andrew hiked with these crazy cats in 2007, and shared an apartment with d=rt for a year in Helena (yes, d=rt is his trail name. It is the physics equation for distance = rate x time). We'll be staying with them when we get to Bend and wanted to give them our ETA. Strangely, both their phones were out of service range...

We found out why in a few hours, with one of the deepest disappointments of our trip so far. In the middle of a trail intersection, a note under a rock from Tree said we'd just missed them - and a BBQ!? APparently they were on the PCT only two hours before we passed, although the BBQ part is still a mystery. BBQ chicken? Pulled pork? The speculation tortured us for the last five miles, along with the agonizing questions of why we hadn't known they'd be here!

Well, all will be revealed when we get to Bend. Hopefully, taking this alternate route tomorrow will mean Bend happens sooner than we'd planned. Then d=rt and Tree have some 'splainin to do!

"It is only in adventure that some people succeed in knowing themselves - in finding themselves"

Shaggy says:

       The day was great. We hiked 25 miles and Lauren said it was the first time she felt good doing that many miles. She flew today too. I honestly had trouble keeping up with her.
   We hiked the first 8 miles by ourselves. It felt good to hike at my own pace and in such an amazing place. Tielson Creek was beautiful. Crystal clear freezing cold runoff coming right off of Mt. Tielson. Its amazing how a little thing like good tasting water can really make a hikers day great.
   The day seemed to fly by. We spent a lot of time dreaming of the food, beer, and company we will have in Bend in a few days. Then, around 3 pm we found a note on the trail, it read... 8/13  12:45 PM, Shaggy and Grolar Bear- sorry you missed the bbq, we will see you in Bend in a few days... Tree, d=rt, and Sage. We missed them by 2 hours! Our minds raced as we tried to figure out when the bbq was, where it was, and how far we were from a road. We were also, of course, sad to miss Tree and d=rt. Would have loved to play with Tree's dog Sage too. We were both frustrated and excited to see them soon.
    Now its 9 pm, time to sleep. I am really enjoying our new friends company, Snausage and Hot Shot. Glad we have gotten to know them and hope we will see them more in the future.

Thielsen Peak. Some hikers take a sidetrip to climb this big daddy but we didn't have that part of the guide...next time!

Friday, November 23, 2012

August 12, 2012 - Pricey Gadgets, Free Water

Day 57
Small campsite off Hwy 138
Just outside Crater Lake National Park
Miles: 22
Trip: 1003

Spent the morning eating Mom's homemade monkey bread (warm from the Mazama store microwave, thank you technology) and escaping from/enjoying Crater Lake's unique brand of town vortex. The four-mile not-graded-for-stock trail up to Rim Village was an invigorating wake-up hike, but then we were trapped by the Rim's fully stocked store (with similar products as Mazama, all priced 50% higher) for a full hour.

I made a decidedly impulse buy of a $40 solar charger to fuel my iPod, shipped to me from home with love and a dead battery. I really believe having fresh music (rather than the same eight songs I've had cycling in my head for 1000 miles) will amp me up to a new level of hiking. Just the 30 minutes of bluegrass and showtunes I was able to wring out of the iPod today, helped me power up the hills. If this solar charger works, it could be my smartest purchase yet. If not...a very expensive pack ornament.

Getting a huge water yogi (a yogi is a favor or freebie given by a non-hiker, usually without the hiker making an out-right request) from Hotshot's friend was welcome. He drove something like 4 hours to drop off six 5-gallon jugs of water here at Hwy 138, and hang out with Hotshot. That's friendship - and great luck for us! It does feel slightly like cheating, but then I think: Who wrote down rules? We're all playing our own game out here.

"The unexpected and incredible belong in the world. Only then is life whole." - Carl Jung

Shaggy says:

     Crater Lake was actually probably one of my favorite National Parks yet. I suppose I was not expecting much, a big over-hyped lake. But I found much more. We walked along the rim for 7 miles. It was very peaceful and relaxing. Also the tourist watching was endless.
   We spent the morning leisurely, ate a big breakfast at the gift shop. Started hiking at 9. Got to Rim Village at 11. Left at one in the afternoon. 6 days of food and 7 liters of water. We are in a large, 26 mile waterless stretch. Luckily a young lady named Hot Shot had a friend who is bringing us water.
   We are at highway 138 with Hot Shot and Snausage. Good times. I love this trail. 


Rim of Crater Lake.

Wizard Island - a volcano within a volcano!

Another rim shot (buh-dum-bum)

This snow was beautiful and tantalizing, with how dry the trail was.

August 11, 2012 - What's in a Trail Name

Day 56
Mazama Village Campground
Crater Lake National Park
Miles: 23
Trip: 981

A very tiring and busy day; even the flat 23 miles seemed to drag on forever. And when I say flat, I mean football field flat - I can see the trail, level, for at least 100 yards. The forest is very pretty though, thick with fir and hemlock and pine, and carpeted with perfumed, silvery lupine. Even with all the lush scenery, by the last five miles I was ready to be out of the woods and in a restaurant eating a giant cheeseburger. Which I did, along with lots of other junk food from the Mazama Village store.

We also picked up our packages - tons more food there, including delicious birthday treats from home (Mom, your monkey bread is even better than Schatz) and almost enough food to get us all the way to Bend. I'm getting more excited about stretching out our leg to Bend - walking 160 miles without stopping for resupply. It could even force me to carry a more reasonable amount of food. If I feel under-supplied, that means I probably have just enough.

We've met so many hikers in the last two days, maybe more than we've met since Kennedy Meadows! Hotshot and Snausage (a forest fire-fighter and salami-making chef, respectively) seem like fun, laid-back people. The rest of the crew in Mazama are nice too, but if I don't see them again there's no way I'll remember that many names. Since trail names usually describe some quirk of a hiker's personality - although this doesn't mean trail names are unique - they are easier to remember than a parade of Johns, Staceys and Laurens. Still, this Grolar Bear is getting close to overload. Whatever our names, trail or birth, sitting around a campfire laughing with a bunch of goofy, sarcastic hikers makes me hope that some of them end up in our campsite more often.

(No pictures today...sorry)

Shaggy says:

The terrain today proved to be easy and we had over 23 miles in by 4 pm. We were motivated to get to the park and eat at the all you can eat pizza buffet. We walked with several other hikers today. In Mazama Village there are at least 13 hikers. Kind of a party on the PCT.
   We ate, we drank, we resupplied our 6-7 days of food. Tomorrow we will hike on to Bend. I am exhausted! 

August 10, 2012 - Pancakes, Beer and other Relief

Day 55
Near Seven Lakes Basin
Sky Lakes Wilderness
Elev: 6900 ft
Miles: 26
Trip: 958

Today was full of relief. My ankle felt a lot better; not 100% but not as painful as yesterday. Another relief was the cold, pure springs we drank from, such a welcome change from the chlorine tablet-treated creek water and rusty-tasting well water we've been drinking (I know - complain, complain, complain. The people we met were a relief as well, after leaving behind so many hikers by jumping up to Seiad Valley. Carpenter and Creeper, a couple we met way back in Sierra City, camped near us last night and caught us later on the trail.

Shaggy was relieved to hear that Carpenter (along with many others) hadn't conquered the Pancake Challenge in Seiad Valley. The diner there challenges hikers (or anyone equally dumb and hungry) to eat five one-pound pancakes in one sitting. Champions receive their gluttonous breakfast free and get their picture on the diner's Wall of Fame. Shaggy had planned to challenge his stomach and win, until our giardia episode challenged our entire digestive system - and we lost. So, deprived of the chance to try, he feared running into someone who would brag about how easy the Pancake Challenge was. Luckily, we found only the defeated. Carpenter (who finished 2 pancakes) told us the pancakes weighed well over a pound each, and our new friend Hotshot said that even with several pancake-purging bathroom visits (allowable under the Challenge rules) she could only finish about 3 pancakes. I say something smells like a sweet scam...

The relief continues: the north side of this ridge reminded me of the Sierras, with bright, scrappy wildflowers and rock-strewn meadows. The spring-fed creek next to camp is something Sierra-like too. Then there's the best relief of all: finally being done with our Flagyl meds and getting to drink the birthday beers that Andrew has been carrying in his pack for 9 days. That's an extra 48 ounces for 140 miles - that's love.

"If you wait for the perfect moment when it is all safe and assured, the moment may never arrive. Mountains will never be climbed, races won, nor lasting happiness achieved."

Shaggy says:

   Today was a lot of fun. It always goes well with a good night sleep. Last night I slept so well. We were close to a highway, but very close to aa raging creek. The white noise  produced was perfect for sleeping.
   We saw Creeper and Carpenter today, along with Hotshot and Snausage. It was great meeting some new people along the journey today.
   The terrain was extremely mellow. It felt like a walk in the park. Very pretty though. Refreshing to be in a wilderness area again. Yesterday we crossed about 30 roads, some dirt, some paved. Today we crossed zero. Its very refreshing to find places without roads, cars, people, shopping malls.
     We really enjoyed seeing Devil's mountain today, and walking the ridge around it. It was so beautiful as the sun was setting. We found snow on the north side of the ridge which was an excellent combination for our beers we carried for so very long. It was like another birthday celebration for Lauren. We ended up hiking 26 miles today, not bad.
   We have 21 miles to Crater Lake tomorrow. I am very excited to see another park I have never seen before. Should be fun.
We're getting closer! (Remember, Andrew and I didn't start in Mexico...but we're about at our halfway point!)

This is very nice trail through lava. A not very nice trail through lava is...well, I didn't feel like taking pictures of those.

I was smitten with these flowers.

Straight out of a Dr. Seuss book!

Thursday, November 22, 2012

August 9, 2012 - A Peek at the Good Life

Day 54
Just off Hwy 140, near Fish Lake Resort
Elev: 5200
Miles: 27
Trip: 932

A morning in the glamorous life of a Thru-Hiker...

5:45 am - Wake up under dawn sky. Sit up and look around blearily for 5-7 minutes. Still groggy from being jolted from sleep four hours earlier by giant ant chomping on my shoulder. Sleeping without tent is overrated.
5:55 am - Dress and pack as much as possible without emerging completely from sleeping bag. Comment  to hiking partner on yet another amazing sunrise, inquire after quality of his sleep and offer thoughts on upcoming terrain. Pass copious and loud gas - no longer embarrassing, merely an amusing and smelly part of life. Sleeping without a tent does have some advantages.
6:15 am - Heave pack off of ground cloth, pack sleeping bag and evaluate possible bathroom sites. After making sure to choose a tree/bush far from the trail (no matter how early it is - dawn hikers can ruin a relaxing morning pee), get prepped for breakfast.
6:30 am - Pour into pot one trail baggie of granola, nuts and protein powder. Add instant coffee and enough water to moisten. Eat with relish (unless protein powder is of the strawberry variety - then eat with resignation). Rinse pot and drink rinse water. Brush teeth - swallow.
6:50 am - Remove excess layers of clothing, check that pockets contain day's supply of candy, maps and knife. Pack remaining gear and hoist pack on back, wondering how much of said gear I could live without for the sake of a lighter pack.
7:00 am - Hike on, adjusting pack straps for at least 45 minutes before settling into the hiking groove.

Shaggy says:

    I don't think sleeping under the stars is for us. We tried again last night, but between the mosquitoes and ants, we did not sleep much. I was exhausted when it was time to get up, Lauren said the same.
   The miles went by slowly and fast at the same time. We hiked over 27 miles somehow. Only saw 5 other hikers today.
   My back was killing me at the end of the day, but Lauren gave me a back rub, how lucky am I?
   I have carried 4 beers that I bought for Lauren's birthday, over 120 miles now. We have been taking medicine for the stomach bug though, and can't drink alcohol until the pills are gone. Tomorrow we will celebrate with a beer at the end of the day. We are both excited to see Crater Lake.
   Wow, I am completely exhausted.

Sunday, November 18, 2012

August 8, 2012 - Oregon is Like Oatmeal

Day 53
Hilltop, east of Hyatt Lake
Elev: 5500
Miles: 24
Trip: 905

No matter how rough a day has been, how hard the miles have felt, a good meal and a beautiful sunset can make it all feel worthwhile. Not that today was really all that rough: rolling terrain through a dry fir and cedar forest, nothing all that challenging or remarkable. So far Oregon seems to me like a good bowl of oatmeal: satisfying and comforting but not usually something I'd get excited about. I'm sure there will be some show-stoppers on the way to Washington, but for the moment I'm grateful for the soft ground and gentle slopes.

Just as the giardia is quieting down (still a few days of meds to go), my knees start crying for attention. My brother Joe was right - everything starts falling apart after 30! The knees are worrisome, though. First it was as if something down there was out of place, then some uncomfortable popping with every step, then some pain and the always-ominous swelling. I'll try wrapping it tomorrow (with my bandanna, since I stupidly forgot an ACE bandage) and being gentle on the downhills. At this rate, will I ever get my 30-mile day?

Shaggy says:

    It was a chilly morning and we both woke up feeling pretty refreshed. For some reason I did feel like the day dragged on. The scenery was okay, but not like what we have seen recently. We are getting into a bit more of a green tunnel. Its still super beautiful, but perhaps a different beauty than what is found on other parts of this trail.
   We did not see any other thru-hikers today. Did meet a few folks out for the day, and a few on a week long hike. It is so weird to get in and out of bubbles of people on this trail. Also strange to think about all the hikers behind us. Are they still hiking? Its hard to know.
   We managed to hike 24 miles today. Not terrible considering we still are not feeling completely 100% yet. We will get back into it though. I am exhausted tonight for some reason. Time to get some rest.

Redneck totems lined a private property next to the trail. This one says, "If you can read this you are in range." Very classy.
More cheeriness from the welcoming committee.

Believe it or not, some locals did not roll out the red carpet for hikers. Luckily they vented their prejudice on poor PCT trail markers instead of poor PCT hikers...

Giant fava bean? That's my best guess...


I swear I heard this tree speak as I hiked by. It sounded a lot like, "Nomnomnomnom..."

August 7, 2012 - Showered with Cash

Day 52
Saddle between Pilot Rock and I-5 tow Ashland
Elev: 5200 ft
Miles: 20
Trip: 881

 I would have said you can't put a price on feeling clean, but Callahan's Lodge disagrees, putting that price at exactly $21. For $15 I got a hot shower (with fluffy towel, lotion and soft robe) and for $6 I got to see the washing machine turn my clothes into thick brown soup then rinse it all (maybe) away. There are no showers at Crater Lake, so I justified the expense by calculating that I'm actually paying $15 for 15 days worth of showers. It just so happens I only get to take one shower in 15 days.

Our plan now is to go straight from Crater Lake to Bend without resupplying - a total of 160 trail miles. That seems daunting, especially when just the 100 miles of food that I have is giving me back spasms. But I do want to cut down on our town time - save money, save time and get a fuller "wilderness" experience. Andrew thinks we can do it, so I'll keep trusting him. He hasn't let me down yet.

"The child's philosophy is not to despise a bubble because it bursts, but to immediately get to work blowing another one."

Shaggy says:

   Today was pretty good. I felt really strong again. Lauren was feeling strong too. We made it all the way to Callahan's Lodge, some 16 miles by 2 pm. All our packages that we sent ourselves arrived. Lauren got new shoes, socks, and gaiters. I got chlorine tablets and a kilt to hike in. Never thought I would own a kilt. But it is extremely comfortable. Allows air to circulate, and should last much longer than the running shorts I seem to destroy every 500-800 miles.
   We enjoyed a good meal at Callahan's lodge too. Its really a great place to refuel, right beside the trail. I think a person could really hike this trail without ever getting more than a couple miles off the trail to resupply. That would save a lot of time and money. Time seems to be the most important of all though.
   I hiked with a man named Gourmet today for a few miles. We talked about how coming to the end of the trail has different meanings for different people. For some, its exciting to finish the trail. They have families, loved ones, apartments, and jobs to go back to. For others, they want to drag this experience out. They don't have much to go back to, or perhaps nowhere to call home. I peersonally am  in the middle. I am excited to start a new chapter of my life. Not looking forward to finding a job, getting into a grind of life. I am excited to start something new, once again.

At Callahan's, sorting through our food package. My sad face could be for many things: we'd just paid $15 for those towels and the hot water that goes with them; my food was distressingly heavy, even without the bread package that had molded in the mail; and my new shoes hadn't arrived in the mail (they finally arrived right after I ate a delicious dinner that wiped this frown clean off)

Pilot Rock, a popular destination for local climbers.

A beautiful open-air campsite, and one of our last. Several giant-ant bites to the arms and loud mosquitoes in the ear made us question our commitment to "cowboy camping", romantic as it is.

Sunday, November 4, 2012

August 6, 2012 - Old Gas and Young Ambition

Day 51
Siskiyou Gap, next to dirt road
Elev: 6000 ft
Miles: 25
Trip: 861

For almost the entire day, I felt like my old hiker self. I was eager to hike in the morning - not as cheerful as Andrew, but eager. The miles came easily and I even caught myself enjoying the uphills again. It was too much too soon, as I found out after 22 miles. Then I got a big painful reminder of why I'd taken five days off. Cramps, bloating, nausea - not sensations you want while wearing a hip belt. Luckily, I happen to hike with the most generous and resourceful thru-hiker out here, and he immediately dropped his pack and went searching for water when he saw me clutching my stomach. Or maybe he just wanted to escape my smellier symptoms...

I'm thankful I felt good enough to enjoy the amazing trail magic at the Cali-Oregon border. A thru-hiker and his two young daughters had set up a little camp on a dirt road, welcoming us to Oregon with noisemakers, grilled hot dogs and cold drinks. This trail magic was unique not only for the noisy celebration: we got to meet another young thru-hiker. At 12, Sunshine hiked the PCT last year with her dad Balls (our trail-magician) during one of the highest snow years on record. Sunshine and Balls also just finished hiking the Appalachian trail - roughly 2,180 miles in three months. I can't imagine growing up like that; learning that your body is capable of hiking 30-plus miles in a day (which she did, several times), meeting people of all different background doing amazing things and experiencing their amazement at your own feats. Must do wonders for a young girl's self esteem.

I also got to witness the meeting of two children of the trail. While handing out party hats and cold pop, Sunshine was eagerly awaiting the arrival of 13-year-old Chili, a boy hiking with his dad (both of whom had also done the AT). He got to Oregon shortly after us and I have to admit I was fascinated by these two kids. As a teacher and a studier of all human behavior, I got a big kick out of watching their adorably awkward meeting and hearing them swap hiking stories. Both intend to hike the Continental Divide Trail (considered by some to be the most difficult of the Big Three long trails) and earn the title Youngest Triple-Crowner. I'd love to follow their stories - what happens when a trail child becomes a trail adult? Where do you find a new challenge after achieving so much?

Shaggy says:

    Today was much better than yesterday. Maybe it was the first solid stool I had in a week, maybe it was entering Oregon, maybe it was the trail magic at the border, or maybe all the delicious spring water today. Whatever it was, today was great.
   We woke to a beautiful sunrise, both felt well rested. We had gone to sleep at 8 pm last night, so we had gotten another good nights' sleep. The trail seemed to know what we needed today, easy miles. Somehow we cranked out 26 of them today. Both of us felt great too.
   The California/Oregon border was a bit unexciting for us. Neither of us had actually walked from Mexico this year, and we were both mostly excited to leave our sickness behind and start a new chapter of this journey. We spent about 3 minutes at the border and then marched on.
   Half a mile further we saw a sign that read "welcome to Oregon Trail Magic". Then we heard  people cheering. It was Balls and his two daughters, Sunshine, and Butterfly. They gave us soda,  hot dogs, twizzlers, and good company. Balls and daughter Sunshine hiked the PCT last year, AT this year, and plan to do the CDT next year. This would make Sunshine the youngest to hike the triple crown, at just 13 years old. Chili and Pepper were hiking near us all day too. Chili is just 13 years old, and has hiked the AT last year and working on the PCT this year. The father-son duo will also attempt the CDT next year. Exciting and amazing to see kids so young out here.
     I ate 4 hot dogs, drank a soda, ate some chips, and that's when I knew my stomach was getting back together. Lauren's stomach is still on its way back together, but we as a whole are feeling stronger everyday. Good day.
The rumors were true! People told us there'd be supreme trail magic at the border...they were so right.

Blankets in the shade, cold beverages, snacks and snazzy party wear. Everything a hiker could want (that's Chili and Butterfly in the back. Butterfly is Balls' other daughter - Sunshine is on the far right)

Oregon looks pretty fine so far - if you don't mind roads and terraced hills (which I don't - much)

And the wildflowers continue!

We have arrived. Let the big miles begin!

Saturday, November 3, 2012

August 5, 2012 - Respect the Storm Gods

Day 50
Ridge above Cook and Green passes
Elev: 6000 ft
Miles: 17
Trip: 836

Blow, wind, blow! That's what I cried just a few minutes ago, nestled in the tent with Andrew while a long-brewing storm roared its way toward us. Andrew was not amused by my bravado and chastised me for taunting the weather gods. I understand his trepidation, since he's the one who has to re-erect the tent if it blows over. But this is the first big storm we've been in, and the adrenaline thrill feels good after a slow, struggling hike. After our first two miles today, I felt as weak and spent as I usually do after hiking 25 miles. Obviously I'm not totally recovered yet. We've talked to several other PCTers who have gotten sick recently, even a few who purify every water source. It's entirely possible that nasty bugs other than giardia are responsible for our illness, so maybe what Andrew and I picked up isn't water-related at all. The mystery may never be solved, but I'm shopping for a new water filter regardless of the diagnosis. Now for a good night's sleep while the thunder crashed overhead. I do respect the storm gods.

"Every day is an adventure if you make it one."

Shaggy says:

Today was tough. I am so sick of being sick and tired. Today really felt like work. We worked hard too. I honestly did not have much fun today. I was exhausted and it was hot. I don't feel like writing anymore. Its storming right now. Only pumped out 18 miles today, and it was hard. Sleep 

A tranquil bay of clouds in the valley is a calming sight early in the morning.

I don't know what causes trees to grow like this, but I was intrigued. And check out that ominous sky!

Lilypad Lake. One of my favorite pictures because of the dozens of shades of green.

Another bizarre pom-pom pine. The rest of the tree looked dead, but a growth of healthy branches grew like a tumor on top.

Sunday, October 28, 2012

August 4, 2012 - Healthy Hiking Tips

Day 49
Ridge above Klamuth River, just outside Seiad Valley
Elev: 3300 ft
Miles: 4
Trip: 819

Skipping miles doesn't sit well with me, but since my dinner is sitting even less well right now, it was probably necessary to hitch forward 150 miles to Seiad Valley. Hiking did feel surprising great though, even up switchbacks in 95 degree heat. Still, my stomach (well...lower stomach really) feels the need to remind me that things are not back to normal - all is not forgiven. I do know that I will be treating all my water from now on, instead of relying on the questionable power of cold mountain springs to be giardia-free. Saving a little time by not treating just isn't worth this awful feeling - and a lot of lost time in the end.

Sitting around in the grass at Seiad Valley was so relaxing; talking with other hikers after five days of only one other person (one amazing person) was refreshing. But amidst all the laughs and blistered-feet stories I was surprised to see several hikers smoking. Andrew had told me he knew smokers on his other hikes, but I guess I didn't believe him. I though (naively, maybe) that thru-hikers were a special breed, apart from the masses, making health-conscious choices in their adventurous lives. I've had other bubbles burst on this trip (typing up journals in town is not quick and easy) so I wasn't totally disillusioned. We've been seeing thru-hikers smoking since Day 1 but this was the first time I'd felt surrounded by them. Of course their health is their business - as long as everyone takes care of their butts, or there will be a lot more wildfires on the trail.

(No pictures again...I blame giardia-induced indifference)

Shaggy says:

We took a long day off yesterday in the town of Yreka. Lauren visited the urgent care clinic and was reminded not to drink water without treating it. They also prescribed her a double dose of Flagyl, one for her, one for me. It worked out well.
   We also watched so many hours of Olympics and other television. We moved from the Econolodge to the Holiday Inn Express. Our stomachs seemed to improve throughout the day, and by dinner time we ate pizza. Not sure it was the best choice.
   This morning we did more lounging. Finally left by 11 am. I was worried that a hitch out of a non trail town would be tough. We received a ride in ten minutes. Two older gentlemen. We soon found out that our driver was the mayor of Yreka, a new first for me. They took us up ten miles where we needed to turn on to another highway. It was super hot there. We luckily got a ride in ten minutes from a girl who lives in Happy Camp, and she would travel through Saied Valley on the way home.
   She gave us a ride back to the trail, it was very nice.
   Being back at the trail feels weird. We are with a group of folks we have not met before and ones that got far ahead of us. We  are 160 miles north of where we were before we got sick. But its also a week later... We will most likely hike on tonight. Feels good, also weird to be here.


August 3, 2012 - Parasites, Water Polo and Gators

Day 48
Holiday Inn Express
Yreka, CA
Miles: 0
Trip: 815

The last week of journal entries have been all over the place - just like us. From the trail to Mt. Shasta City, back to the trail, then down to Dunsmuir, then here to Yreka...and salvation. I never thought salvation would involve a walk-in clinic and a wicked Cup-O-Noodles craving, but that's what I've needed. I saw a very kind and understanding physician's assistant who prescribed some Flagyl (medicine to evict the parasite giardia from our systems) without requiring a poop sample, which would have involved more cost and more walking - yes, I'm trying to avoid walking right now.

I recorded zero miles for today, but there should be one for me and at least two for Andrew, after moving from the Econo Lodge to a posh, out-of-the-way Holiday Inn. among other reasons, because the Econo manager told me that keeping my shoes  outside the door "looks very bad". I wanted to tell him that keeping them inside would "smell very bad" but instead we just packed up.

After we moved, Andrew and I did what so many hikers do on zero days: we loafed like nobody's business. Thanks to the Olympics and fascinating shows like "Gator Boys and the Horse-Eating Gator" we had no reason to leave the room. I did start fretting about the recurring guilt over not making any meaningful contributions to society by being out here. Then I thought that, since thru-hiking is only really meaningful to the hiker, the only one suffering from my taking time off is me - no co-workers or children were harmed in the pausing of this endeavor. I didn't explore the thought any further, content to watch water polo, eat noodles from a styrofoam cup, and pretend the rest of the world didn't exist.

(No pictures today)

August 1, 2012 - Giardia Says Happy Birthday

Day 46
Large wooded campsite
Castle Crags Wilderness
Miles: 3
Trip: 815

Fifteen mile in two days is pretty embarrassing, but I can't imagine going any further than we did today. Our night played out like a bad sitcom: first plagued by mosquitoes; then legions of ants all over my shoes, socks and pack; then wind rocking the tent Andrew hastily erected to escape the insects; and finally an emergency midnight trip to the manzanita bushes to evacuate what felt like very unhappy bowels.

We didn't start hiking until 9am, a sorry start to my ambition of hiking 30 miles on my 30th birthday. I have to credit Andrew big-time though. Even though he was feeling just as lousy, he still made today all about me. Ironically, most of the gifts he carried in are edible - on the only birthday I've ever turned down chocolate.

So what's gotten into us? It could be water- or food-related or just exhaustion, but whatever it is knocked us both on our asses. After two grueling hours of willing my body forward despite a growing urge to vomit, we decided that, in the long run (or long hike in our case), rest would be more useful than torturing ourselves through miles. So we camped at 11am and I spent my 30th birthday sleeping the day away under a canopy of firs and sugar pines. Definitely not the worst birthday I've ever spent. With a sympathetic boyfriend willing to do anything to make me feel special (I have birthday balloons on my backpack!) I think I've actually got it pretty good. Now if we could just wake up tomorrow, refreshed and healthy, I'd feel even more like the luckiest girl in the world.

 "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the things you did do." - Mark Twain

(Editor's Note: Another unpleasant birthday surprise was discovered after writing this entry. Zero the Ultralight Penguin stayed behind in a Mt. Shasta City motel. He was a good friend, and I will miss him.)

Shaggy says:

  Last night was rough. It was just one problem after another. Both of us went to sleep with stomach aches. Then the mosquitoes would not let up. They buzzed around our heads just enough to keep us awake. Around midnight I set up the tent. The area for the tent was really too small for our large tent, and we both ended up sleeping on rocky uneven surfaces. Then there were ants, millions, on everything. So as we are throwing our stuff in the tent, we are shaking off ants. They were on everything. Luckily we did hang our food in a tree to keep the rodents out.
    This morning we both felt terrible. We had stomach pains and felt really tired. I felt so bad, its Lauren's birthday and we both feel like vomiting. Our dreams of hiking 30 miles today were shattered as we were both exhausted.
   We decided to hike to the next water source and call it a day. A whooping 3 mile day. We camped in a saddle and slept most of the day. Though its no fun being sick, we did enjoy resting here. We are both in high spirits, played a few games this afternoon.
   We are feeling a bit better this evening, hoping to get back in the groove tomorrow. We also talked about hiking back to town tomorrow and getting a bus up to Etna after a couple days rest. Not ideal, but we may need more rest. 

Even birthday balloons couldn't buoy me up today. I leaned on my poles pretty heavy for those three miles.

Of course we were sick in on of the nicest parts of the trail - Castle Crags is worth a visit.

A dry, limey creek bed reminded us how dry this area can get.

Friday, October 19, 2012

July 31, 2012 - A Picture-Rich Post

Day 45
Ridge above snaking switchbacks
Castle Crags Wilderness
Miles: 12
Trip: 812

Being in town seems to throw a kink into trail life, at least for me. I'm feeling too relaxed and lazy at night to journal, even though most towns (Mt. Shasta City being a prime example) deserve to be written about. The good news is that I felt very good on the 20-mile hike down to I-5. Apparently all I needed was a decent night's rest, then I was up at dawn and hiking by 6:30am. Hopefully that holds true for tomorrow too. I struggled through every one of our measly 12 miles today, trying to placate an upset stomach that I blame on town. What is it about greasy, fatty, dairy-rich food that puts my system on high alert? Actually, I could probably figure that one out. I did force myself to eat a good dinner though, and now I'm going to force myself to sleep early, even though there is so much more to write about. Hiking comes first!

On our way out of town, Andrew ponders how traveling with an innocent-looking female greatly increases his chances of getting a ride.

...even if that innocent-looking female also looks a little goofy. (The small sign was a laminated card I used, with a dry-erase marker, when we needed to broadcast our need for a ride)
I look surprising chipper for someone whose insides felt like Spaghettios.

Castle Crags was utterly unique, so I don't feel bad posting many, many pictures.


The last of a sunset snags on the edge of one craggy ridge.


Da moon!


Monday, October 15, 2012

July 28, 2012 - Fewer Skeeters, More Hot Tub

Day 42
Just beyond Trough Creek
Shasta National Forest
Elev: 3050 ft.
Miles: 23
Trip 800!!

I knew there would be days like this - tired, hot, bored with walking. And yet, I'd rather be here hiking than almost anywhere and anything else. Okay, drinking a beer in a hot tub crossed my mind a few times. But even as tired as I felt, I still understood that this was my dream, and today was just another aspect of that dream - walking twelve hours through a steamy forest on five hours of sleep. The lack of sleep was courtesy of a few giant (bigger than we've seen since Yosemite, anyway) mosquitoes which crashed our camping-under-the-stars party last night. Andrew finally got fed up and pitched the tent, but both of us had already lost a few hours sleep to the evil buzzing. So we started hiking a bit late again today, and I couldn't seem to motivate my legs the rest of the day. Maybe there's a point in any physically intense endeavor when the body says "No way. I need some rest time before I do any more of this craziness." I just felt heavy and stiff all day. Maybe it's just a symptom of getting older...

"It is not our toughness that keeps us warm. It is our tenderness that makes other people want to keep us warm."

Shaggy says:

  The mosquitoes were active last night. We had planned on sleeping out, cowboy style. All went well for about an hour. Then I could not take the mosquitoes any longer. As soon as I was about to fall asleep, the sound of a mosquito buzzing towards me filled my ear. Finally I could not take anymore and I set up the tent.
   Fell asleep quickly, but another hour later, I woke to a bloody nose. I think that all the dust lately really messed my sinuses up. It stopped bleeding quickly though, and back to sleep I went.
  6 am and we were awake. Not by my choice. Lauren wanted to get a big mileage day in. I could have slept much longer myself.
   On we went though. Guess we were both exhausted. Never made great time today. Lauren was stung by a yellow jacket. I had the bear rope rock hit my lip/shoulder/chin. Ow. We are both tired. Havent had a zero mile day since Bridgeport, some 525 miles ago. Looking forward to a day off in the town of Mt. Shasta. Sleep now..


(No pictures today...)

July 27, 2012 - Rattlesnake Hurdles

Day 41
Logging area near Gold Creek
Elev: 5400 ft
Miles: 26
Trip: 777

The Olympics kicked off today. I always loved watching the opening ceremony - it was so mind-blowing in Tokyo. It's things like that, landmark events like the Olympics, that I actually do miss out here. The next time the summer Olympics happen, I'll be turning 34! But if I have the chance to thru-hike that year, I'll be happy to miss the Games again. Nothing on TV is as exciting and fulfilling as being out here.

Example: I almost stepped on a rattlesnake this morning! He was just off the trail and my footstep fell a few inches from his coiled body. It was more thrilling than scary, after I realized I wasn't facing a fully-charged, angry snake. He didn't even rattle - probably still morning-sluggish. Then, this evening, a raptor swooped down through a gap in the forest canopy, flew right along the trail, then pulled back up just ten yards in front of me I felt the same reverence I'd felt for the nighthawk; the word majestic came to mind. The bird looked like a hawk, but flew so silently through the trees, maybe it was an owl. Anyway, these riveting brushes with predators are way better than watching gymnastics.

Our plan for the next week is gradually solidifying. We'll reach Dunsmire, CA, on Sunday evening (earlier if we can do more miles tomorrow - maybe my first 30?) then catch a ride to Mt. Shasta where we'll take a very busy zero (no miles hiked) day. Outfitter shopping, food resupply, putting together maildrops (boxes of food to send ahead) and a birthday celebration - all in one day. No wonder we never get much rest in town; there's too much to do!

"We fail far more often by timidity than by daring."

Shaggy says:

    Before we started this hike, a lot of folks reminded us of the dangers of embarking on an expedition like this. I have heard it before every long hike. They say to take bear spray, ask if I am worried about bears, snakes, giardia, lymes disease, West Nile, dehydration, sun burn, cliffs, rocks, and rabid animals. I have learned to listen to the concerns, but also let them know that I can handle things okay. My rule is to simply not get myself into a situation I can't get out of.
    A little known fact about hiking is that it is much more likely that a person will get injured while in a car on the way to the trailhead. Not much out here can compare to the dangers of moving at 75 miles per an hour in a large chunk of metal, surrounded by other vehicles doing the same. Nope, 2.5 miles per hour is pretty safe, biggest risk is probably a stress fracture. Like the one I received on the Appalachian Trail in 2004. The doctor said I had walked too much. Painfuul, but after two weeks and the help of family driving me to Maine, I was back on the trail.
    But honestly, I think I should worry more about my family and friends in the other world. They have to drive everyday! They have stresses that I know little about, mortgages, car loans, and work! My biggest stress is staying healthy and eating enough to do that.
  We did have an encounter with a rattlesnake today, first one on the trail. Lauren walked right past it, jumped just as she saw him, 4" from her right leg. I watched as his head followed her leg. This was  not an agressive snake, he quickly retreated to the nearby shrubs. It was exciting and scary at the same time. Had she kicked the snake or hit him with her pole, it may have snapped at her. Glad we made it through!
    We had  a great day though. A little cooler than yesteerday, and the views of Mt Shasta have been spectacular. Though this section is a bit monotonous, it has proven to be better than people had warned us about. I think the worse sections of the PCT may still be better than the best of the AT. Life is good, and we feel alive!
    Lauren even gave me a foot rub tonight, as my  new shoes are so uncomfortable. Very sweet, how am I so lucky?

Lava flow: pretty to look at, torture to walk on.

Lookout Rock. For the life of me, I don't know how it got that name...

That, folks, is a very special phenomenon called the Dirt Tan.

For those hikers starting in Mexico, this was the 1500 mile mark. We passed little nature-mosaics like this at lots of big milestones.