August 8, 2012 - Oregon is Like Oatmeal

Day 53
Hilltop, east of Hyatt Lake
Elev: 5500
Miles: 24
Trip: 905

No matter how rough a day has been, how hard the miles have felt, a good meal and a beautiful sunset can make it all feel worthwhile. Not that today was really all that rough: rolling terrain through a dry fir and cedar forest, nothing all that challenging or remarkable. So far Oregon seems to me like a good bowl of oatmeal: satisfying and comforting but not usually something I'd get excited about. I'm sure there will be some show-stoppers on the way to Washington, but for the moment I'm grateful for the soft ground and gentle slopes.

Just as the giardia is quieting down (still a few days of meds to go), my knees start crying for attention. My brother Joe was right - everything starts falling apart after 30! The knees are worrisome, though. First it was as if something down there was out of place, then some uncomfortable popping with every step, then some pain and the always-ominous swelling. I'll try wrapping it tomorrow (with my bandanna, since I stupidly forgot an ACE bandage) and being gentle on the downhills. At this rate, will I ever get my 30-mile day?

Shaggy says:

    It was a chilly morning and we both woke up feeling pretty refreshed. For some reason I did feel like the day dragged on. The scenery was okay, but not like what we have seen recently. We are getting into a bit more of a green tunnel. Its still super beautiful, but perhaps a different beauty than what is found on other parts of this trail.
   We did not see any other thru-hikers today. Did meet a few folks out for the day, and a few on a week long hike. It is so weird to get in and out of bubbles of people on this trail. Also strange to think about all the hikers behind us. Are they still hiking? Its hard to know.
   We managed to hike 24 miles today. Not terrible considering we still are not feeling completely 100% yet. We will get back into it though. I am exhausted tonight for some reason. Time to get some rest.

Redneck totems lined a private property next to the trail. This one says, "If you can read this you are in range." Very classy.

More cheeriness from the welcoming committee.

Believe it or not, some locals did not roll out the red carpet for hikers. Luckily they vented their prejudice on poor PCT trail markers instead of poor PCT hikers...

Giant fava bean? That's my best guess...

I swear I heard this tree speak as I hiked by. It sounded a lot like, "Nomnomnomnom..."

August 7, 2012 - Showered with Cash

Day 52
Saddle between Pilot Rock and I-5 tow Ashland
Elev: 5200 ft
Miles: 20
Trip: 881

 I would have said you can't put a price on feeling clean, but Callahan's Lodge disagrees, putting that price at exactly $21. For $15 I got a hot shower (with fluffy towel, lotion and soft robe) and for $6 I got to see the washing machine turn my clothes into thick brown soup then rinse it all (maybe) away. There are no showers at Crater Lake, so I justified the expense by calculating that I'm actually paying $15 for 15 days worth of showers. It just so happens I only get to take one shower in 15 days.

Our plan now is to go straight from Crater Lake to Bend without resupplying - a total of 160 trail miles. That seems daunting, especially when just the 100 miles of food that I have is giving me back spasms. But I do want to cut down on our town time - save money, save time and get a fuller "wilderness" experience. Andrew thinks we can do it, so I'll keep trusting him. He hasn't let me down yet.

"The child's philosophy is not to despise a bubble because it bursts, but to immediately get to work blowing another one."

Shaggy says:

   Today was pretty good. I felt really strong again. Lauren was feeling strong too. We made it all the way to Callahan's Lodge, some 16 miles by 2 pm. All our packages that we sent ourselves arrived. Lauren got new shoes, socks, and gaiters. I got chlorine tablets and a kilt to hike in. Never thought I would own a kilt. But it is extremely comfortable. Allows air to circulate, and should last much longer than the running shorts I seem to destroy every 500-800 miles.
   We enjoyed a good meal at Callahan's lodge too. Its really a great place to refuel, right beside the trail. I think a person could really hike this trail without ever getting more than a couple miles off the trail to resupply. That would save a lot of time and money. Time seems to be the most important of all though.
   I hiked with a man named Gourmet today for a few miles. We talked about how coming to the end of the trail has different meanings for different people. For some, its exciting to finish the trail. They have families, loved ones, apartments, and jobs to go back to. For others, they want to drag this experience out. They don't have much to go back to, or perhaps nowhere to call home. I peersonally am  in the middle. I am excited to start a new chapter of my life. Not looking forward to finding a job, getting into a grind of life. I am excited to start something new, once again.

At Callahan's, sorting through our food package. My sad face could be for many things: we'd just paid $15 for those towels and the hot water that goes with them; my food was distressingly heavy, even without the bread package that had molded in the mail; and my new shoes hadn't arrived in the mail (they finally arrived right after I ate a delicious dinner that wiped this frown clean off)

Pilot Rock, a popular destination for local climbers.

A beautiful open-air campsite, and one of our last. Several giant-ant bites to the arms and loud mosquitoes in the ear made us question our commitment to "cowboy camping", romantic as it is.

August 6, 2012 - Old Gas and Young Ambition

Day 51
Siskiyou Gap, next to dirt road
Elev: 6000 ft
Miles: 25
Trip: 861

For almost the entire day, I felt like my old hiker self. I was eager to hike in the morning - not as cheerful as Andrew, but eager. The miles came easily and I even caught myself enjoying the uphills again. It was too much too soon, as I found out after 22 miles. Then I got a big painful reminder of why I'd taken five days off. Cramps, bloating, nausea - not sensations you want while wearing a hip belt. Luckily, I happen to hike with the most generous and resourceful thru-hiker out here, and he immediately dropped his pack and went searching for water when he saw me clutching my stomach. Or maybe he just wanted to escape my smellier symptoms...

I'm thankful I felt good enough to enjoy the amazing trail magic at the Cali-Oregon border. A thru-hiker and his two young daughters had set up a little camp on a dirt road, welcoming us to Oregon with noisemakers, grilled hot dogs and cold drinks. This trail magic was unique not only for the noisy celebration: we got to meet another young thru-hiker. At 12, Sunshine hiked the PCT last year with her dad Balls (our trail-magician) during one of the highest snow years on record. Sunshine and Balls also just finished hiking the Appalachian trail - roughly 2,180 miles in three months. I can't imagine growing up like that; learning that your body is capable of hiking 30-plus miles in a day (which she did, several times), meeting people of all different background doing amazing things and experiencing their amazement at your own feats. Must do wonders for a young girl's self esteem.

I also got to witness the meeting of two children of the trail. While handing out party hats and cold pop, Sunshine was eagerly awaiting the arrival of 13-year-old Chili, a boy hiking with his dad (both of whom had also done the AT). He got to Oregon shortly after us and I have to admit I was fascinated by these two kids. As a teacher and a studier of all human behavior, I got a big kick out of watching their adorably awkward meeting and hearing them swap hiking stories. Both intend to hike the Continental Divide Trail (considered by some to be the most difficult of the Big Three long trails) and earn the title Youngest Triple-Crowner. I'd love to follow their stories - what happens when a trail child becomes a trail adult? Where do you find a new challenge after achieving so much?

Shaggy says:

    Today was much better than yesterday. Maybe it was the first solid stool I had in a week, maybe it was entering Oregon, maybe it was the trail magic at the border, or maybe all the delicious spring water today. Whatever it was, today was great.
   We woke to a beautiful sunrise, both felt well rested. We had gone to sleep at 8 pm last night, so we had gotten another good nights' sleep. The trail seemed to know what we needed today, easy miles. Somehow we cranked out 26 of them today. Both of us felt great too.
   The California/Oregon border was a bit unexciting for us. Neither of us had actually walked from Mexico this year, and we were both mostly excited to leave our sickness behind and start a new chapter of this journey. We spent about 3 minutes at the border and then marched on.
   Half a mile further we saw a sign that read "welcome to Oregon Trail Magic". Then we heard  people cheering. It was Balls and his two daughters, Sunshine, and Butterfly. They gave us soda,  hot dogs, twizzlers, and good company. Balls and daughter Sunshine hiked the PCT last year, AT this year, and plan to do the CDT next year. This would make Sunshine the youngest to hike the triple crown, at just 13 years old. Chili and Pepper were hiking near us all day too. Chili is just 13 years old, and has hiked the AT last year and working on the PCT this year. The father-son duo will also attempt the CDT next year. Exciting and amazing to see kids so young out here.
     I ate 4 hot dogs, drank a soda, ate some chips, and that's when I knew my stomach was getting back together. Lauren's stomach is still on its way back together, but we as a whole are feeling stronger everyday. Good day.

The rumors were true! People told us there'd be supreme trail magic at the border...they were so right.

Blankets in the shade, cold beverages, snacks and snazzy party wear. Everything a hiker could want (that's Chili and Butterfly in the back. Butterfly is Balls' other daughter - Sunshine is on the far right)

Oregon looks pretty fine so far - if you don't mind roads and terraced hills (which I don't - much)

And the wildflowers continue!

We have arrived. Let the big miles begin!

August 5, 2012 - Respect the Storm Gods

Day 50
Ridge above Cook and Green passes
Elev: 6000 ft
Miles: 17
Trip: 836

Blow, wind, blow! That's what I cried just a few minutes ago, nestled in the tent with Andrew while a long-brewing storm roared its way toward us. Andrew was not amused by my bravado and chastised me for taunting the weather gods. I understand his trepidation, since he's the one who has to re-erect the tent if it blows over. But this is the first big storm we've been in, and the adrenaline thrill feels good after a slow, struggling hike. After our first two miles today, I felt as weak and spent as I usually do after hiking 25 miles. Obviously I'm not totally recovered yet. We've talked to several other PCTers who have gotten sick recently, even a few who purify every water source. It's entirely possible that nasty bugs other than giardia are responsible for our illness, so maybe what Andrew and I picked up isn't water-related at all. The mystery may never be solved, but I'm shopping for a new water filter regardless of the diagnosis. Now for a good night's sleep while the thunder crashed overhead. I do respect the storm gods.

"Every day is an adventure if you make it one."

Shaggy says:

Today was tough. I am so sick of being sick and tired. Today really felt like work. We worked hard too. I honestly did not have much fun today. I was exhausted and it was hot. I don't feel like writing anymore. Its storming right now. Only pumped out 18 miles today, and it was hard. Sleep 

A tranquil bay of clouds in the valley is a calming sight early in the morning.

I don't know what causes trees to grow like this, but I was intrigued. And check out that ominous sky!

Lilypad Lake. One of my favorite pictures because of the dozens of shades of green.

Another bizarre pom-pom pine. The rest of the tree looked dead, but a growth of healthy branches grew like a tumor on top.

August 4, 2012 - Healthy Hiking Tips

Day 49
Ridge above Klamuth River, just outside Seiad Valley
Elev: 3300 ft
Miles: 4
Trip: 819

Skipping miles doesn't sit well with me, but since my dinner is sitting even less well right now, it was probably necessary to hitch forward 150 miles to Seiad Valley. Hiking did feel surprising great though, even up switchbacks in 95 degree heat. Still, my stomach (well...lower stomach really) feels the need to remind me that things are not back to normal - all is not forgiven. I do know that I will be treating all my water from now on, instead of relying on the questionable power of cold mountain springs to be giardia-free. Saving a little time by not treating just isn't worth this awful feeling - and a lot of lost time in the end.

Sitting around in the grass at Seiad Valley was so relaxing; talking with other hikers after five days of only one other person (one amazing person) was refreshing. But amidst all the laughs and blistered-feet stories I was surprised to see several hikers smoking. Andrew had told me he knew smokers on his other hikes, but I guess I didn't believe him. I though (naively, maybe) that thru-hikers were a special breed, apart from the masses, making health-conscious choices in their adventurous lives. I've had other bubbles burst on this trip (typing up journals in town is not quick and easy) so I wasn't totally disillusioned. We've been seeing thru-hikers smoking since Day 1 but this was the first time I'd felt surrounded by them. Of course their health is their business - as long as everyone takes care of their butts, or there will be a lot more wildfires on the trail.

(No pictures again...I blame giardia-induced indifference)

Shaggy says:

We took a long day off yesterday in the town of Yreka. Lauren visited the urgent care clinic and was reminded not to drink water without treating it. They also prescribed her a double dose of Flagyl, one for her, one for me. It worked out well.
   We also watched so many hours of Olympics and other television. We moved from the Econolodge to the Holiday Inn Express. Our stomachs seemed to improve throughout the day, and by dinner time we ate pizza. Not sure it was the best choice.
   This morning we did more lounging. Finally left by 11 am. I was worried that a hitch out of a non trail town would be tough. We received a ride in ten minutes. Two older gentlemen. We soon found out that our driver was the mayor of Yreka, a new first for me. They took us up ten miles where we needed to turn on to another highway. It was super hot there. We luckily got a ride in ten minutes from a girl who lives in Happy Camp, and she would travel through Saied Valley on the way home.
   She gave us a ride back to the trail, it was very nice.
   Being back at the trail feels weird. We are with a group of folks we have not met before and ones that got far ahead of us. We  are 160 miles north of where we were before we got sick. But its also a week later... We will most likely hike on tonight. Feels good, also weird to be here.

August 3, 2012 - Parasites, Water Polo and Gators

Day 48
Holiday Inn Express
Yreka, CA
Miles: 0
Trip: 815

The last week of journal entries have been all over the place - just like us. From the trail to Mt. Shasta City, back to the trail, then down to Dunsmuir, then here to Yreka...and salvation. I never thought salvation would involve a walk-in clinic and a wicked Cup-O-Noodles craving, but that's what I've needed. I saw a very kind and understanding physician's assistant who prescribed some Flagyl (medicine to evict the parasite giardia from our systems) without requiring a poop sample, which would have involved more cost and more walking - yes, I'm trying to avoid walking right now.

I recorded zero miles for today, but there should be one for me and at least two for Andrew, after moving from the Econo Lodge to a posh, out-of-the-way Holiday Inn. among other reasons, because the Econo manager told me that keeping my shoes  outside the door "looks very bad". I wanted to tell him that keeping them inside would "smell very bad" but instead we just packed up.

After we moved, Andrew and I did what so many hikers do on zero days: we loafed like nobody's business. Thanks to the Olympics and fascinating shows like "Gator Boys and the Horse-Eating Gator" we had no reason to leave the room. I did start fretting about the recurring guilt over not making any meaningful contributions to society by being out here. Then I thought that, since thru-hiking is only really meaningful to the hiker, the only one suffering from my taking time off is me - no co-workers or children were harmed in the pausing of this endeavor. I didn't explore the thought any further, content to watch water polo, eat noodles from a styrofoam cup, and pretend the rest of the world didn't exist.

(No pictures today)

August 1, 2012 - Giardia Says Happy Birthday

Day 46
Large wooded campsite
Castle Crags Wilderness
Miles: 3
Trip: 815

Fifteen mile in two days is pretty embarrassing, but I can't imagine going any further than we did today. Our night played out like a bad sitcom: first plagued by mosquitoes; then legions of ants all over my shoes, socks and pack; then wind rocking the tent Andrew hastily erected to escape the insects; and finally an emergency midnight trip to the manzanita bushes to evacuate what felt like very unhappy bowels.

We didn't start hiking until 9am, a sorry start to my ambition of hiking 30 miles on my 30th birthday. I have to credit Andrew big-time though. Even though he was feeling just as lousy, he still made today all about me. Ironically, most of the gifts he carried in are edible - on the only birthday I've ever turned down chocolate.

So what's gotten into us? It could be water- or food-related or just exhaustion, but whatever it is knocked us both on our asses. After two grueling hours of willing my body forward despite a growing urge to vomit, we decided that, in the long run (or long hike in our case), rest would be more useful than torturing ourselves through miles. So we camped at 11am and I spent my 30th birthday sleeping the day away under a canopy of firs and sugar pines. Definitely not the worst birthday I've ever spent. With a sympathetic boyfriend willing to do anything to make me feel special (I have birthday balloons on my backpack!) I think I've actually got it pretty good. Now if we could just wake up tomorrow, refreshed and healthy, I'd feel even more like the luckiest girl in the world.

 "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the things you did do." - Mark Twain

(Editor's Note: Another unpleasant birthday surprise was discovered after writing this entry. Zero the Ultralight Penguin stayed behind in a Mt. Shasta City motel. He was a good friend, and I will miss him.)

Shaggy says:

  Last night was rough. It was just one problem after another. Both of us went to sleep with stomach aches. Then the mosquitoes would not let up. They buzzed around our heads just enough to keep us awake. Around midnight I set up the tent. The area for the tent was really too small for our large tent, and we both ended up sleeping on rocky uneven surfaces. Then there were ants, millions, on everything. So as we are throwing our stuff in the tent, we are shaking off ants. They were on everything. Luckily we did hang our food in a tree to keep the rodents out.
    This morning we both felt terrible. We had stomach pains and felt really tired. I felt so bad, its Lauren's birthday and we both feel like vomiting. Our dreams of hiking 30 miles today were shattered as we were both exhausted.
   We decided to hike to the next water source and call it a day. A whooping 3 mile day. We camped in a saddle and slept most of the day. Though its no fun being sick, we did enjoy resting here. We are both in high spirits, played a few games this afternoon.
   We are feeling a bit better this evening, hoping to get back in the groove tomorrow. We also talked about hiking back to town tomorrow and getting a bus up to Etna after a couple days rest. Not ideal, but we may need more rest. 

Even birthday balloons couldn't buoy me up today. I leaned on my poles pretty heavy for those three miles.

Of course we were sick in on of the nicest parts of the trail - Castle Crags is worth a visit.

A dry, limey creek bed reminded us how dry this area can get.