Above Squaw Lake, just after Silver Pass
Elevation: 10300 feet
Miles: 21
Trip: 217
The mosquitoes have arrived. Or rather, we have arrived to where the mosquitoes reign. We've considered ourselves lucky so far, being in the Sierras with few mosquitoes, but today our luck ran out. As soon as we came down from Selden Pass we were swatting our arms, legs and faces. When we hit Bear Creek (where Andrew says two hikers were swept downstream in 2006 while crossing, but our ford barely got our feet wet) they were following us in clouds, making us question the necessity of every pause. Do I really need to pee right now? Or can I hold it until the swarm thins? They left us alone for long enough to take a long break at Mono Creek, where we rinsed our clothes and sat in the sun talking about the luxuries of town. Andrew isn't craving any aspect of civilization yet, but but I'm very much looking forward to Reds Meadow. We won't have a bed, but they do have hot spring showers and a pay phone and a restaurant. Hot damn! If they had affordable internet I'd be over the moon.
I'm already over the moon about how healthy I've been lately - two 20+ mile days in a row! I don't really want to get through the Sierras too quickly, but it's especially hard to stop hiking at four when the mosquitoes are bad. I do enjoy long mid-day breaks; gives us some zen time when we're not focused on making miles or camp chores. And I get to rest my feet, something that is becoming more important as these shoes wear out.
Shaggy says:
The lake we were camped above was beautiful this morning, and the bugs seemed to be gone when we first got out of the tent. We had a really long descent from Marie Lakes down to Bear Creek and as we descended the skeeters got more and more present. At one point Lauren stopped to use the wilderness room, and I tried to wait patiently. But the bugs were so thick that as I wiped 10-20 off of one leg, the other leg would get covered. I ended up putting on my pants, rain jacket, and headnet. Just about that time, Lauren showed up, and we ran down the trail. That may have been the thickest I have ever seen them.
Bear Creek was a breeze to cross. We did get wet feet, but nothing like how it was in 2006. I have got to stop talking about 06' though. It was such a totally different experience, but I talk about it too much.
We took a great 2 hour break at Mono Creek. No mosquitoes there. We washed up in the creek and it felt great. Rinsed my socks at least 20 times and the water still came out brown. We are dirty. I am lucky to have a partner who does not mind being dirty, or me being dirty.
We enjoy the long afternoon breaks. It really breaks up the day. It gives us the chance to really enjoy the country we are walking through. I hope we continue to do it further north.
The climb up over Silver Pass was tough. My shoes are completely shot, can not wait to get new ones in Tuolumne Meadows. After about 15 miles, my feet begin to ache. Hope I can nurse these dead Asics another 58 miles.
We are camped at Squaw Lake, after 22 miles today. Exhausted and should sleep well. Reds Meadow tomorrow.
"If you have the impulse to do something, and it's not totally irresponsible, why not do it? It might just be the journey you've always needed." -Timothy Hutton
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| Columbine, like a glowing lantern in the forest. |
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| The bridge under which we took refuge from the mosquitoes. It seems that, like other evil spirits, skeeters despise rushing water. |
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| One of these baby birds will get a bigger share of regurgitated worms. |
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| In some places, the trail looks like something from Better Homes and Gardens. |
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| The view from Selden Pass. |
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| Our camp set-up before the mosquitoes reminded us that cowboy-camping just wasn't an option. |
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| Sunset over our campsite. |
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