Tuesday, August 28, 2012
For those not on Facebook...
Here's a link to some pictures on Facebook - some you've seen before, some new, but all intensely fascinating. http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10100964977843694.2696862.23324479&type=3#!/media/set/?set=a.10100964977843694.2696862.23324479&type=3
Monday, August 27, 2012
June 30, 2012 - Park Wildlife, aka Tourists
Day 16
Tuolumne Meadows
Crowded campground
Miles: 17
Trip: 273
Elevation: 6700 feet
Today was filled with fast hiking and friendly people - lots of them. I saw more hikers today than I have in all the days since Bishop, most of them wearing bright shiny gear and exhausted expressions. Most are very interested in where we're going. One man seemed especially intrigues by our story - called us heroic. We're not even hiking the entire trail! But it did feel good to hear such high praise from a stranger, even if all we're really doing is walking.
The mosquitoes kept us moving quickly today, and we reached Tuolumne by 3pm. Yosemite is impressive. The huge domes of solid rock are like nothing I've ever seen, then to see people scrambling up and down them...wow. The down side of being in a national park is the prices..and the crowds. The small store and cafe were crawling with tourists from so many countries I rarely heard English. That part I like - the diversity. But it was overwhelming to be surrounded by people and asphalt and cars after over a week in the Sierras seeing only hikers and horsepackers. We did get to meet a few more PCTers - four more hikers from Israel. It was very cool to get their impressions of the American trail parks service. Mostly I gathered they think we have way too many rules and regulations. Hitchhiking is illegal but there aren't enough buses; fishing and hiking permits are hard to get; bear canisters are too small for our food supplies. All legitimate complaints, but I hope they experience some of the generous, accommodating side of America too. They said they haven't even had had trail magic yet! At least I got those four Jolly Ranchers...
Shaggy says:
The sounds of vehicles, alarms going off, horns going beep, and the steady roar of them passing us as we parralleled the first road that the PCT crosses in 220 miles. Though we had not crossed the road yet today, we followed it to the store here in Tuolomne Meadows. The place was, and still is a zoo. I was so overwhelmed after our 18 mile day. Dehydrated, hungry, and a bit ornary. Lauren was feeling the same way, as she snapped at me at one point. After eating, we both felt much better.
We even made some new friends with PCTers from Israel. Drank a couple beers and washed up in the river. Felt so good! We are making great time and will hopefully make it to Bridgeport on the 4th.
Tuolumne Meadows
Crowded campground
Miles: 17
Trip: 273
Elevation: 6700 feet
Today was filled with fast hiking and friendly people - lots of them. I saw more hikers today than I have in all the days since Bishop, most of them wearing bright shiny gear and exhausted expressions. Most are very interested in where we're going. One man seemed especially intrigues by our story - called us heroic. We're not even hiking the entire trail! But it did feel good to hear such high praise from a stranger, even if all we're really doing is walking.
The mosquitoes kept us moving quickly today, and we reached Tuolumne by 3pm. Yosemite is impressive. The huge domes of solid rock are like nothing I've ever seen, then to see people scrambling up and down them...wow. The down side of being in a national park is the prices..and the crowds. The small store and cafe were crawling with tourists from so many countries I rarely heard English. That part I like - the diversity. But it was overwhelming to be surrounded by people and asphalt and cars after over a week in the Sierras seeing only hikers and horsepackers. We did get to meet a few more PCTers - four more hikers from Israel. It was very cool to get their impressions of the American trail parks service. Mostly I gathered they think we have way too many rules and regulations. Hitchhiking is illegal but there aren't enough buses; fishing and hiking permits are hard to get; bear canisters are too small for our food supplies. All legitimate complaints, but I hope they experience some of the generous, accommodating side of America too. They said they haven't even had had trail magic yet! At least I got those four Jolly Ranchers...
Shaggy says:
The sounds of vehicles, alarms going off, horns going beep, and the steady roar of them passing us as we parralleled the first road that the PCT crosses in 220 miles. Though we had not crossed the road yet today, we followed it to the store here in Tuolomne Meadows. The place was, and still is a zoo. I was so overwhelmed after our 18 mile day. Dehydrated, hungry, and a bit ornary. Lauren was feeling the same way, as she snapped at me at one point. After eating, we both felt much better.
We even made some new friends with PCTers from Israel. Drank a couple beers and washed up in the river. Felt so good! We are making great time and will hopefully make it to Bridgeport on the 4th.
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| More amazingness on our way over yet another pass...ho-hum. |
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| The trail into Yosemite. Now imagine passing a hiker every half mile, each one asking "How far'd you go?" and "How long are ya in for?" |
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| Shaggy's socks hanging on our tent provide a special brand of security. |
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| Puppy Dome at Yosemite. A few of those dark specks are climbers. |
June 29, 2012 - Eat, Hike, Love
Day 15
Near Treeline, surrounded by alpine lakes
Above 1,000 Islands Lake
Miles: 18
Trip: 256
This campsite reminds me of the Beartooths in Montana more than any other place we've been. Black, jagged granite peaks jutting out around boulder-filled lakes; scraggly pines bent and twisted from wind and deep snow. It has the magic I felt on my very first three-night trip in 2009. I was slack-jawed the entire time, speechless over how constant and surreal the beauty was. Today I felt the same wonder and reverence, even after everything we've seen. These mountains make me feel honored to be near them, afraid it might all disappear like a vivid daydream. I didn't want to go into the tent, just stand outside until the sun went completely out.
I'm definitely getting stronger, even with the rough days. We got a nice late start today and took a couple long breaks between speedy hiking through mosquitoes. Even got to soak my feet once - that makes a huge difference. So much that I was able to power past 1,000 Islands Lake (where Ansel Adams took famously fantastic photos) to this little cove on Island Pass. My feet only complained slightly, mostly about starting out too fast and not breaking soon enough. But by the last five miles I was keeping pace with Andrew (when I wasn't taking pictures) and even had the urge to swim once we finally made camp at 8pm.
Another badge on my thru-hiker sash: I have a voracious appetite. Tonight was the first night I finished my dinner and looked for more, whereas I sometimes have to force the last spoonfuls down.I ate an extra Snickers as we hiked into camped, and another when doing chores. And I'm still hungry! I hope I sent enough food to my resupply points...
Andrew and I are still getting along well. Today we played some alphabet games (candy bars starting with A,B,C...etc.) to speed the miles along. We even talked politics a little, which he gets fired up about and I try not to be drawn into. This trip is the ultimate test of a relationship, but also the best way to get to know someone on a deep level. And if you can love someone who hasn't showered in 12 days, lets their flatulence reign freely, and sings the same off-key songs repeatedly...well, you're just lucky.
Shaggy says:
Slept really well last night. Having the campground to ourselves was awesome, but even better a PCT hiker and 2 JMT hikers joined us as we sat around the first campfire we have had on this trip.
This morning we got a late start, slept in a bit and then enjoyed breakfast at the restaurant in Reds Meadow. It was super tasty, I got the largest breakfast they offered and it wasn't big enough. A little pricey too, but that was expected.
We enjoyed a leisurely morning. I made phone calls while Lauren wrote postcards and journaled. It was a great way to enjoy the morning. At 1030 we took off. Got lost right away in the maze of trails around Reds Meadow. Found our way though, and spent the rest of the day paying better attention.
It always feels great to be back on the trail. One highlight of the day was passing a group of 10 Asians. They had at least 4 generations on this hike, and must not have known we were behind them, because we followed them for a good quarter mile.
It was hot down low today. But now we are camped at Island Pass and enjoying a chilly sunset. I am exhausted and my stomach is feeling funky. Think its the town food. We did 19 miles today and have 17 to go to get to Tuolomne Meadows. Looking forward to it!
"Work is the refuge of those who have nothing better to do." -Oscar Wilde
Near Treeline, surrounded by alpine lakes
Above 1,000 Islands Lake
Miles: 18
Trip: 256
This campsite reminds me of the Beartooths in Montana more than any other place we've been. Black, jagged granite peaks jutting out around boulder-filled lakes; scraggly pines bent and twisted from wind and deep snow. It has the magic I felt on my very first three-night trip in 2009. I was slack-jawed the entire time, speechless over how constant and surreal the beauty was. Today I felt the same wonder and reverence, even after everything we've seen. These mountains make me feel honored to be near them, afraid it might all disappear like a vivid daydream. I didn't want to go into the tent, just stand outside until the sun went completely out.
I'm definitely getting stronger, even with the rough days. We got a nice late start today and took a couple long breaks between speedy hiking through mosquitoes. Even got to soak my feet once - that makes a huge difference. So much that I was able to power past 1,000 Islands Lake (where Ansel Adams took famously fantastic photos) to this little cove on Island Pass. My feet only complained slightly, mostly about starting out too fast and not breaking soon enough. But by the last five miles I was keeping pace with Andrew (when I wasn't taking pictures) and even had the urge to swim once we finally made camp at 8pm.
Another badge on my thru-hiker sash: I have a voracious appetite. Tonight was the first night I finished my dinner and looked for more, whereas I sometimes have to force the last spoonfuls down.I ate an extra Snickers as we hiked into camped, and another when doing chores. And I'm still hungry! I hope I sent enough food to my resupply points...
Andrew and I are still getting along well. Today we played some alphabet games (candy bars starting with A,B,C...etc.) to speed the miles along. We even talked politics a little, which he gets fired up about and I try not to be drawn into. This trip is the ultimate test of a relationship, but also the best way to get to know someone on a deep level. And if you can love someone who hasn't showered in 12 days, lets their flatulence reign freely, and sings the same off-key songs repeatedly...well, you're just lucky.
Shaggy says:
Slept really well last night. Having the campground to ourselves was awesome, but even better a PCT hiker and 2 JMT hikers joined us as we sat around the first campfire we have had on this trip.
This morning we got a late start, slept in a bit and then enjoyed breakfast at the restaurant in Reds Meadow. It was super tasty, I got the largest breakfast they offered and it wasn't big enough. A little pricey too, but that was expected.
We enjoyed a leisurely morning. I made phone calls while Lauren wrote postcards and journaled. It was a great way to enjoy the morning. At 1030 we took off. Got lost right away in the maze of trails around Reds Meadow. Found our way though, and spent the rest of the day paying better attention.
It always feels great to be back on the trail. One highlight of the day was passing a group of 10 Asians. They had at least 4 generations on this hike, and must not have known we were behind them, because we followed them for a good quarter mile.
It was hot down low today. But now we are camped at Island Pass and enjoying a chilly sunset. I am exhausted and my stomach is feeling funky. Think its the town food. We did 19 miles today and have 17 to go to get to Tuolomne Meadows. Looking forward to it!
"Work is the refuge of those who have nothing better to do." -Oscar Wilde
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| Whew, Zero found the trail for us. Glad we keep him around. |
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| Happy spring in the Sierras! |
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| Tilting your camera at artistic angles automatically makes the photo avant garde and hip. |
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| Ansel Adams took famous photographs at Thousand Island Lake. I figured, if he can do it... |
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| Campsite on Island Pass. |
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| Yes, we have matching sleeping bags. Can we help it if Western Mountaineering makes the very best in down products? |
June 28, 2012 - Shaggy Walks on Bologna Skins
Day 14
Reds Meadow Campground
Elevation: 7750 feet
Miles: 21
Trip: 238
(Written June 29, after a night in the campgrounds) Hoo boy. That may have been the roughest day yet. No passes, no big climbs, but my feet were killing me for the last five miles. We didn't take a big break because we were focused on making the dinner bell here. My chant on the way in was at first "Shower...burger...payphone" until a John Muir Trail hiker (hiked the PCT in '85!) gleefully told us that the hot springs showers had been condemned. So my mantra became, "Burger...payphone...beer". But by the end not even the wind-flattened forest could distract me for long.A cold soak in the creek (with the hotsprings locked up beside us...) and some cold beers went a long way toward dulling the pain. A hot pastrami sandwich and some phone calls took me the rest of the way.
So now we're leisurely waiting for our 10am departure time (something I suspect Andrew is having a hard time with) and giving our feet a chance to rest. Andrew's shoe order didn't make it to Tuolumne Meadows (our next stop) so he has to suffer with flat, blown-out shoes (he calls them his bologna skins) until Bridgeport. My shoes need to get me to Sierra City, which might be a painful experience...but we'll have a hotel room in Bridgeport to recuperate.
Before my feet started throbbing, yesterday was actually a great day. Our campsite Thursday night was beautifully situated in a step of land below Silver Pass and above a long valley. The mosquitoes gave us a little break, but not enough that we could forgo the tent. Yesterday morning, when we hiked through Virginia Lake, we literally hiked through Virginia Lake. Andrew first tricked me into thinking the only crossing was a deep inlet, then shamed me into fording it once I figured out the real crossing was a rock hop. The water was past my waist, forcing me to hoist my pack over my shoulders. It's embarrassing how easily Andrew successfully used the line, "Well, if you're not hard-core enough...". But I have to admit, it was fun, and now I have a tiny taste of what hikers endured in '06 and '11. Now, it's on to Tuolumne!
Shaggy says:
Slept so well at Squaw Lake last night. Didnt wake up until 5, which is late for me. Lauren got ready in record time, faster than me today. We were both excited to be headed to Reds Meadow for burgers, beer, and free hot spring showers.
We made great time as we went up and down for what seemed like all day. We forded Virginia Lake as I did in 06'. It did take some convincing for Lauren to follow me. I had to remind her that her trail name is Groler Bear, a mix of Grizzly and Polar bear. She did it and it made great footage. Which reminds me, we are making a dance video. Dancing from Kennedy Meadows to Canada.
We made it to Reds Meadow at 4 pm. We ate burgers, drank beer, and are stealth camping at the closed campground. The road to Mammoth is opening tomorrow. A big windstorm came through this winter with 150 mph winds. It knocked over thousands of trees. Luckily the store and restaraunt opened for us hikers. The free hot spring showers were condemed by the state of California. So we washed in the cold creek, and life is still very good. Should be at the big shin dig in Bridgeport for the fourth of July.
By the way. Every day I spend with Lauren, I seem to fall more in love with her. Life is good.
Reds Meadow Campground
Elevation: 7750 feet
Miles: 21
Trip: 238
(Written June 29, after a night in the campgrounds) Hoo boy. That may have been the roughest day yet. No passes, no big climbs, but my feet were killing me for the last five miles. We didn't take a big break because we were focused on making the dinner bell here. My chant on the way in was at first "Shower...burger...payphone" until a John Muir Trail hiker (hiked the PCT in '85!) gleefully told us that the hot springs showers had been condemned. So my mantra became, "Burger...payphone...beer". But by the end not even the wind-flattened forest could distract me for long.A cold soak in the creek (with the hotsprings locked up beside us...) and some cold beers went a long way toward dulling the pain. A hot pastrami sandwich and some phone calls took me the rest of the way.
So now we're leisurely waiting for our 10am departure time (something I suspect Andrew is having a hard time with) and giving our feet a chance to rest. Andrew's shoe order didn't make it to Tuolumne Meadows (our next stop) so he has to suffer with flat, blown-out shoes (he calls them his bologna skins) until Bridgeport. My shoes need to get me to Sierra City, which might be a painful experience...but we'll have a hotel room in Bridgeport to recuperate.
Before my feet started throbbing, yesterday was actually a great day. Our campsite Thursday night was beautifully situated in a step of land below Silver Pass and above a long valley. The mosquitoes gave us a little break, but not enough that we could forgo the tent. Yesterday morning, when we hiked through Virginia Lake, we literally hiked through Virginia Lake. Andrew first tricked me into thinking the only crossing was a deep inlet, then shamed me into fording it once I figured out the real crossing was a rock hop. The water was past my waist, forcing me to hoist my pack over my shoulders. It's embarrassing how easily Andrew successfully used the line, "Well, if you're not hard-core enough...". But I have to admit, it was fun, and now I have a tiny taste of what hikers endured in '06 and '11. Now, it's on to Tuolumne!
Shaggy says:
Slept so well at Squaw Lake last night. Didnt wake up until 5, which is late for me. Lauren got ready in record time, faster than me today. We were both excited to be headed to Reds Meadow for burgers, beer, and free hot spring showers.
We made great time as we went up and down for what seemed like all day. We forded Virginia Lake as I did in 06'. It did take some convincing for Lauren to follow me. I had to remind her that her trail name is Groler Bear, a mix of Grizzly and Polar bear. She did it and it made great footage. Which reminds me, we are making a dance video. Dancing from Kennedy Meadows to Canada.
We made it to Reds Meadow at 4 pm. We ate burgers, drank beer, and are stealth camping at the closed campground. The road to Mammoth is opening tomorrow. A big windstorm came through this winter with 150 mph winds. It knocked over thousands of trees. Luckily the store and restaraunt opened for us hikers. The free hot spring showers were condemed by the state of California. So we washed in the cold creek, and life is still very good. Should be at the big shin dig in Bridgeport for the fourth of July.
By the way. Every day I spend with Lauren, I seem to fall more in love with her. Life is good.
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| That is one handsome hiker man. |
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| The forest service worked overtime to clear this trail of hundreds of blowdowns from a HUGE spring storm with winds over 100 mph. |
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| Take one burned forest, add 120 mph winds, and this is what you get. Eerie, huh? |
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| Zero is still adjusting to the hiker lifestyle (not enough snow) |
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| Western tanager!! He was having a ball catching bugs on this rotting log. |
June 27, 2012 - Mosquitos vs. Pit Stops
Day 13
Above Squaw Lake, just after Silver Pass
Elevation: 10300 feet
Miles: 21
Trip: 217
The mosquitoes have arrived. Or rather, we have arrived to where the mosquitoes reign. We've considered ourselves lucky so far, being in the Sierras with few mosquitoes, but today our luck ran out. As soon as we came down from Selden Pass we were swatting our arms, legs and faces. When we hit Bear Creek (where Andrew says two hikers were swept downstream in 2006 while crossing, but our ford barely got our feet wet) they were following us in clouds, making us question the necessity of every pause. Do I really need to pee right now? Or can I hold it until the swarm thins? They left us alone for long enough to take a long break at Mono Creek, where we rinsed our clothes and sat in the sun talking about the luxuries of town. Andrew isn't craving any aspect of civilization yet, but but I'm very much looking forward to Reds Meadow. We won't have a bed, but they do have hot spring showers and a pay phone and a restaurant. Hot damn! If they had affordable internet I'd be over the moon.
I'm already over the moon about how healthy I've been lately - two 20+ mile days in a row! I don't really want to get through the Sierras too quickly, but it's especially hard to stop hiking at four when the mosquitoes are bad. I do enjoy long mid-day breaks; gives us some zen time when we're not focused on making miles or camp chores. And I get to rest my feet, something that is becoming more important as these shoes wear out.
Shaggy says:
The lake we were camped above was beautiful this morning, and the bugs seemed to be gone when we first got out of the tent. We had a really long descent from Marie Lakes down to Bear Creek and as we descended the skeeters got more and more present. At one point Lauren stopped to use the wilderness room, and I tried to wait patiently. But the bugs were so thick that as I wiped 10-20 off of one leg, the other leg would get covered. I ended up putting on my pants, rain jacket, and headnet. Just about that time, Lauren showed up, and we ran down the trail. That may have been the thickest I have ever seen them.
Bear Creek was a breeze to cross. We did get wet feet, but nothing like how it was in 2006. I have got to stop talking about 06' though. It was such a totally different experience, but I talk about it too much.
We took a great 2 hour break at Mono Creek. No mosquitoes there. We washed up in the creek and it felt great. Rinsed my socks at least 20 times and the water still came out brown. We are dirty. I am lucky to have a partner who does not mind being dirty, or me being dirty.
We enjoy the long afternoon breaks. It really breaks up the day. It gives us the chance to really enjoy the country we are walking through. I hope we continue to do it further north.
The climb up over Silver Pass was tough. My shoes are completely shot, can not wait to get new ones in Tuolumne Meadows. After about 15 miles, my feet begin to ache. Hope I can nurse these dead Asics another 58 miles.
We are camped at Squaw Lake, after 22 miles today. Exhausted and should sleep well. Reds Meadow tomorrow.
"If you have the impulse to do something, and it's not totally irresponsible, why not do it? It might just be the journey you've always needed." -Timothy Hutton
Above Squaw Lake, just after Silver Pass
Elevation: 10300 feet
Miles: 21
Trip: 217
The mosquitoes have arrived. Or rather, we have arrived to where the mosquitoes reign. We've considered ourselves lucky so far, being in the Sierras with few mosquitoes, but today our luck ran out. As soon as we came down from Selden Pass we were swatting our arms, legs and faces. When we hit Bear Creek (where Andrew says two hikers were swept downstream in 2006 while crossing, but our ford barely got our feet wet) they were following us in clouds, making us question the necessity of every pause. Do I really need to pee right now? Or can I hold it until the swarm thins? They left us alone for long enough to take a long break at Mono Creek, where we rinsed our clothes and sat in the sun talking about the luxuries of town. Andrew isn't craving any aspect of civilization yet, but but I'm very much looking forward to Reds Meadow. We won't have a bed, but they do have hot spring showers and a pay phone and a restaurant. Hot damn! If they had affordable internet I'd be over the moon.
I'm already over the moon about how healthy I've been lately - two 20+ mile days in a row! I don't really want to get through the Sierras too quickly, but it's especially hard to stop hiking at four when the mosquitoes are bad. I do enjoy long mid-day breaks; gives us some zen time when we're not focused on making miles or camp chores. And I get to rest my feet, something that is becoming more important as these shoes wear out.
Shaggy says:
The lake we were camped above was beautiful this morning, and the bugs seemed to be gone when we first got out of the tent. We had a really long descent from Marie Lakes down to Bear Creek and as we descended the skeeters got more and more present. At one point Lauren stopped to use the wilderness room, and I tried to wait patiently. But the bugs were so thick that as I wiped 10-20 off of one leg, the other leg would get covered. I ended up putting on my pants, rain jacket, and headnet. Just about that time, Lauren showed up, and we ran down the trail. That may have been the thickest I have ever seen them.
Bear Creek was a breeze to cross. We did get wet feet, but nothing like how it was in 2006. I have got to stop talking about 06' though. It was such a totally different experience, but I talk about it too much.
We took a great 2 hour break at Mono Creek. No mosquitoes there. We washed up in the creek and it felt great. Rinsed my socks at least 20 times and the water still came out brown. We are dirty. I am lucky to have a partner who does not mind being dirty, or me being dirty.
We enjoy the long afternoon breaks. It really breaks up the day. It gives us the chance to really enjoy the country we are walking through. I hope we continue to do it further north.
The climb up over Silver Pass was tough. My shoes are completely shot, can not wait to get new ones in Tuolumne Meadows. After about 15 miles, my feet begin to ache. Hope I can nurse these dead Asics another 58 miles.
We are camped at Squaw Lake, after 22 miles today. Exhausted and should sleep well. Reds Meadow tomorrow.
"If you have the impulse to do something, and it's not totally irresponsible, why not do it? It might just be the journey you've always needed." -Timothy Hutton
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| Columbine, like a glowing lantern in the forest. |
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| The bridge under which we took refuge from the mosquitoes. It seems that, like other evil spirits, skeeters despise rushing water. |
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| One of these baby birds will get a bigger share of regurgitated worms. |
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| In some places, the trail looks like something from Better Homes and Gardens. |
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| The view from Selden Pass. |
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| Our camp set-up before the mosquitoes reminded us that cowboy-camping just wasn't an option. |
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| Sunset over our campsite. |
Saturday, August 18, 2012
Best Laid Plans
A few months before starting our hike, Andrew asked me how I'd be updating my blog from the trail. I'm a die-hard traditional journaler, pen and paper only, so my options were few. "I'll type up my journals when I get to town. There will be computers and internet access everywhere, right?" He tried to tell me this might not always be the case...he was right. Our internet access has been either slow, expensive, or non-existent, and where it exists my motivation does not. Oddly enough, hiking 25 miles a day does not leave much enery for typing on computers for hours in town.
So in apology to anyone looking forward to a weekly update (as was promised) I offer more pictures from the journey. And really, a picture is worth a 1,000 words so the these make up for all the blogs still waiting in my hand-written journal. Right? As for those dramatic recountings of trail trauma and excitement...stay tuned. Maybe there will be a hi-tech hotel in Washington when we need to dry out. Thanks for following the blog!
So in apology to anyone looking forward to a weekly update (as was promised) I offer more pictures from the journey. And really, a picture is worth a 1,000 words so the these make up for all the blogs still waiting in my hand-written journal. Right? As for those dramatic recountings of trail trauma and excitement...stay tuned. Maybe there will be a hi-tech hotel in Washington when we need to dry out. Thanks for following the blog!
For your viewing pleasure...
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| Lupine meadow in 3 Sisters Wilderness. If only this were a scratch-n-sniff photo, you'd be as blissed out as I was. |
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| Lava field below Opie Dilldock Pass, literally a mile from the lush meadow of lupine. The mountains are (R-L) Washington, 3-Fingered Jack and Jefferson |
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| The final stretch of my first 30-mile day. So grateful for the epic flat nature of this landscape. |
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| One of many, MANY little lakes in 3 Sisters Wilderness. Beautiful, but birthplace to a gazillion mosquitos. |
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| Name that plant! Found near a spring beside a dirt road in Deshutes Nat'l Forest. |
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| The dreaded land jellyfish!! Or maybe just a freaky kind of fungus...felt like hard, cold velvet. |
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| The PCT, marked old-school style. |
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| Crater Lake and Wizard Island, delighting international tourists and thru-hikers alike. |
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| I thought these flowers belonged in some Dr. Seuss story...the Who-Bloom! |
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| More Crater Lake magic. |
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| Believe it or not, the PCT is not wildly popular in some areas... |
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| The bottom reads, "If you can read this, you are in range". Very inviting. |
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| Even the trees have something to say about the trail. Something like, "Nom nom nom..." |
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| Lima bean tree tumor!! |
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| A welcome party at the Cali-Oregon border! Complete with party hats, noise makers, hot dogs and awesome company. |
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| It is, really and truly, a party on the PCT. Thanks to Balls, Sunshine and Butterfly - the ultimate trail angel family. |
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| One last glimpse of California...I'll be back, starting at the Mexico next time! |
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| My birthday balloons cheered me up while resting on the trail for a good 24 hours. Giardia is NOT what I wanted for my birthday. |
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| When my stomach finally accepted food, Shaggy prepared my birthday brownie...with all 30 candles. |
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| It looks scary, but I swear we had lots of water standing by. Turning 30 is dangerous! |
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| Happy birthday to me! Now to recuperate from stomach ailments by spending another three days in town... |
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| Moonrise over Castle Crags on my birthday-eve. |
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| Castle Crags near Mt. Shasta |
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| My dry-erase hitchhiking sign, much classier than cardboard. |
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| "Hmmm, I wonder if Michael Jordan will ever come looking for his shoes..." |
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| Who needs a tanning booth when you can get a hiker tan? Dirt also functions as sunscreen and insect repellent. |
Friday, August 3, 2012
June 26, 2012 - A Dip in Hot Mud
Day 12
Marie Lake, below Selden Pass
Elevation: 10551 ft
Miles: 22
Trip:186
Today was fun - there was nary a moment of seriousness. At first I was grumpy in the morning, having gotten readily more speedily than usual and still sensing Andrew's impatience to leave. So I was crabby until we saw our first big cascade of the day - who can be in a bad mood with so much beauty? The descent to Muir Trail Ranch didn't seem to affect my feet too badly, and it seemed like only an hour of hiking later we were ringing the bell on MTR's gate. Our package arrived without problems (I'd been concerned about sending a 5-gallon bucket in the mail, but apparently those are easier to load on horses) and we were able to snag a few supplies from some left-behind items. I was disappointed not to be able to use the internet - unless I wanted to spend $20 for a half hour.
Striking a balance between miles and smiles is difficult in the Sierras. I want to push myself and see how far I can get each day, but I also don't want to rush through the Sierras and not remember some pass, a canyon, a creek, a mountain...there's so mych to see, how can I take it all in when I'm exhausted or aching? It's hard to know when to draw the line. Tomorrow we'll try taking a long break in the afternoon, like we did in the local "hot springs" today. As gross as that mud pit looked, it will still make a great memory.
Shaggy says:
Today was amazing. We started early, and it was super cold, about 30 degrees. Hard to get moving, but felt great when we did get into the sun. We crossed the very cold, but not so swift Evolution Creek around 8 AM. Last time I was here, the creek was at least twice as big as it was today. We took the high water route and still were in water up to my waist. Today we got our knees wet at the low water crossing.
The walk down to Muir Trail Ranch was very easy and we made great time. It was also very pretty. I love watching the transitions from high alpine down to semi desert with sage brush and all.
At Muir Trail Ranch we were greeted by Pat and 2 dogs. Pat was extremely friendly and helpful, got us our bucket that we sent ourselves right away. We went through everything, so glad we sent ourselves so much food. Also glad we sent 2 beers! The ranch was very laid back, picnic tables in the shade. Also several buckets of hikers leftovers. I resupplied my hand sanitizer, sunscreen, and even found a book about the John Muir Trail to carry. We loaded up and were out in an hour. We walked right to Shooting Star Meadows, where we enjoyed a somewhat dirty hot spring. Drank our semi cold Lewis and Clark beers while soaking in the semi hot springs. That's good livin. We came out smelling clean and somewhat less greasy!
We then began the 3000 foot climb out of the valley to Selden Pass. It was 2 in the afternoon when we started the climb, not the best timing, but a great climb. Lauren did not want to stop, so we went to the top and on to Marie Lakes. I must say I am exhausted, but we did over 20 miles, climbed 3000 feet, did a resupply, and drank a beer while soaking in a hot spring. I can not complain, I feel great. So does Lauren, we are getting stronger.
"If one is forever cautious, can one remain a human being?"
Marie Lake, below Selden Pass
Elevation: 10551 ft
Miles: 22
Trip:186
Today was fun - there was nary a moment of seriousness. At first I was grumpy in the morning, having gotten readily more speedily than usual and still sensing Andrew's impatience to leave. So I was crabby until we saw our first big cascade of the day - who can be in a bad mood with so much beauty? The descent to Muir Trail Ranch didn't seem to affect my feet too badly, and it seemed like only an hour of hiking later we were ringing the bell on MTR's gate. Our package arrived without problems (I'd been concerned about sending a 5-gallon bucket in the mail, but apparently those are easier to load on horses) and we were able to snag a few supplies from some left-behind items. I was disappointed not to be able to use the internet - unless I wanted to spend $20 for a half hour.
Striking a balance between miles and smiles is difficult in the Sierras. I want to push myself and see how far I can get each day, but I also don't want to rush through the Sierras and not remember some pass, a canyon, a creek, a mountain...there's so mych to see, how can I take it all in when I'm exhausted or aching? It's hard to know when to draw the line. Tomorrow we'll try taking a long break in the afternoon, like we did in the local "hot springs" today. As gross as that mud pit looked, it will still make a great memory.
Shaggy says:
Today was amazing. We started early, and it was super cold, about 30 degrees. Hard to get moving, but felt great when we did get into the sun. We crossed the very cold, but not so swift Evolution Creek around 8 AM. Last time I was here, the creek was at least twice as big as it was today. We took the high water route and still were in water up to my waist. Today we got our knees wet at the low water crossing.
The walk down to Muir Trail Ranch was very easy and we made great time. It was also very pretty. I love watching the transitions from high alpine down to semi desert with sage brush and all.
At Muir Trail Ranch we were greeted by Pat and 2 dogs. Pat was extremely friendly and helpful, got us our bucket that we sent ourselves right away. We went through everything, so glad we sent ourselves so much food. Also glad we sent 2 beers! The ranch was very laid back, picnic tables in the shade. Also several buckets of hikers leftovers. I resupplied my hand sanitizer, sunscreen, and even found a book about the John Muir Trail to carry. We loaded up and were out in an hour. We walked right to Shooting Star Meadows, where we enjoyed a somewhat dirty hot spring. Drank our semi cold Lewis and Clark beers while soaking in the semi hot springs. That's good livin. We came out smelling clean and somewhat less greasy!
We then began the 3000 foot climb out of the valley to Selden Pass. It was 2 in the afternoon when we started the climb, not the best timing, but a great climb. Lauren did not want to stop, so we went to the top and on to Marie Lakes. I must say I am exhausted, but we did over 20 miles, climbed 3000 feet, did a resupply, and drank a beer while soaking in a hot spring. I can not complain, I feel great. So does Lauren, we are getting stronger.
"If one is forever cautious, can one remain a human being?"
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| I'm running out of superlatives to use for these scenes...Splendiferous! |
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| The ubiquitous marmot. This chubby guy came right into our camp to sniff around...we named him Snickers. |
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| The glorious, yet modest, Muir Trail Ranch hot springs. |
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| Nothing like a muddy soak and a beer! (Yes, Shaggy is wearing shorts in there.) |
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| My mosquito protection. Not only functional, but stylish too. |
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| In camping and real estate, one thing matters most: Location, location, location. |
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| Muir Trail Ranch will pack your supplies in and hold them for you until you arrive. Neat-o! |
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| We go a little excited to be in the John Muir Wilderness. |
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| We hung our food every night in the Sierras. Maybe that | 's why we didn't see much big wildlife... |
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