Day 49
Ridge above Klamuth River, just outside Seiad Valley
Elev: 3300 ft
Miles: 4
Trip: 819
Skipping miles doesn't sit well with me, but since my dinner is sitting even less well right now, it was probably necessary to hitch forward 150 miles to Seiad Valley. Hiking did feel surprising great though, even up switchbacks in 95 degree heat. Still, my stomach (well...lower stomach really) feels the need to remind me that things are not back to normal - all is not forgiven. I do know that I will be treating all my water from now on, instead of relying on the questionable power of cold mountain springs to be giardia-free. Saving a little time by not treating just isn't worth this awful feeling - and a lot of lost time in the end.
Sitting around in the grass at Seiad Valley was so relaxing; talking with other hikers after five days of only one other person (one amazing person) was refreshing. But amidst all the laughs and blistered-feet stories I was surprised to see several hikers smoking. Andrew had told me he knew smokers on his other hikes, but I guess I didn't believe him. I though (naively, maybe) that thru-hikers were a special breed, apart from the masses, making health-conscious choices in their adventurous lives. I've had other bubbles burst on this trip (typing up journals in town is not quick and easy) so I wasn't totally disillusioned. We've been seeing thru-hikers smoking since Day 1 but this was the first time I'd felt surrounded by them. Of course their health is their business - as long as everyone takes care of their butts, or there will be a lot more wildfires on the trail.
(No pictures again...I blame giardia-induced indifference)
Shaggy says:
We took a long day off yesterday in the town of Yreka. Lauren visited
the urgent care clinic and was reminded not to drink water without
treating it. They also prescribed her a double dose of Flagyl, one for
her, one for me. It worked out well.
We also watched so many hours of Olympics and other television. We
moved from the Econolodge to the Holiday Inn Express. Our stomachs
seemed to improve throughout the day, and by dinner time we ate pizza.
Not sure it was the best choice.
This morning we did more lounging. Finally left by 11 am. I was
worried that a hitch out of a non trail town would be tough. We received
a ride in ten minutes. Two older gentlemen. We soon found out that our
driver was the mayor of Yreka, a new first for me. They took us up ten
miles where we needed to turn on to another highway. It was super hot
there. We luckily got a ride in ten minutes from a girl who lives in
Happy Camp, and she would travel through Saied Valley on the way home.
She gave us a ride back to the trail, it was very nice.
Being back at the trail feels weird. We are with a group of folks we
have not met before and ones that got far ahead of us. We are 160 miles
north of where we were before we got sick. But its also a week later...
We will most likely hike on tonight. Feels good, also weird to be here.
Sunday, October 28, 2012
August 3, 2012 - Parasites, Water Polo and Gators
Day 48
Holiday Inn Express
Yreka, CA
Miles: 0
Trip: 815
The last week of journal entries have been all over the place - just like us. From the trail to Mt. Shasta City, back to the trail, then down to Dunsmuir, then here to Yreka...and salvation. I never thought salvation would involve a walk-in clinic and a wicked Cup-O-Noodles craving, but that's what I've needed. I saw a very kind and understanding physician's assistant who prescribed some Flagyl (medicine to evict the parasite giardia from our systems) without requiring a poop sample, which would have involved more cost and more walking - yes, I'm trying to avoid walking right now.
I recorded zero miles for today, but there should be one for me and at least two for Andrew, after moving from the Econo Lodge to a posh, out-of-the-way Holiday Inn. among other reasons, because the Econo manager told me that keeping my shoes outside the door "looks very bad". I wanted to tell him that keeping them inside would "smell very bad" but instead we just packed up.
After we moved, Andrew and I did what so many hikers do on zero days: we loafed like nobody's business. Thanks to the Olympics and fascinating shows like "Gator Boys and the Horse-Eating Gator" we had no reason to leave the room. I did start fretting about the recurring guilt over not making any meaningful contributions to society by being out here. Then I thought that, since thru-hiking is only really meaningful to the hiker, the only one suffering from my taking time off is me - no co-workers or children were harmed in the pausing of this endeavor. I didn't explore the thought any further, content to watch water polo, eat noodles from a styrofoam cup, and pretend the rest of the world didn't exist.
(No pictures today)
Holiday Inn Express
Yreka, CA
Miles: 0
Trip: 815
The last week of journal entries have been all over the place - just like us. From the trail to Mt. Shasta City, back to the trail, then down to Dunsmuir, then here to Yreka...and salvation. I never thought salvation would involve a walk-in clinic and a wicked Cup-O-Noodles craving, but that's what I've needed. I saw a very kind and understanding physician's assistant who prescribed some Flagyl (medicine to evict the parasite giardia from our systems) without requiring a poop sample, which would have involved more cost and more walking - yes, I'm trying to avoid walking right now.
I recorded zero miles for today, but there should be one for me and at least two for Andrew, after moving from the Econo Lodge to a posh, out-of-the-way Holiday Inn. among other reasons, because the Econo manager told me that keeping my shoes outside the door "looks very bad". I wanted to tell him that keeping them inside would "smell very bad" but instead we just packed up.
After we moved, Andrew and I did what so many hikers do on zero days: we loafed like nobody's business. Thanks to the Olympics and fascinating shows like "Gator Boys and the Horse-Eating Gator" we had no reason to leave the room. I did start fretting about the recurring guilt over not making any meaningful contributions to society by being out here. Then I thought that, since thru-hiking is only really meaningful to the hiker, the only one suffering from my taking time off is me - no co-workers or children were harmed in the pausing of this endeavor. I didn't explore the thought any further, content to watch water polo, eat noodles from a styrofoam cup, and pretend the rest of the world didn't exist.
(No pictures today)
August 1, 2012 - Giardia Says Happy Birthday
Day 46
Large wooded campsite
Castle Crags Wilderness
Miles: 3
Trip: 815
Fifteen mile in two days is pretty embarrassing, but I can't imagine going any further than we did today. Our night played out like a bad sitcom: first plagued by mosquitoes; then legions of ants all over my shoes, socks and pack; then wind rocking the tent Andrew hastily erected to escape the insects; and finally an emergency midnight trip to the manzanita bushes to evacuate what felt like very unhappy bowels.
We didn't start hiking until 9am, a sorry start to my ambition of hiking 30 miles on my 30th birthday. I have to credit Andrew big-time though. Even though he was feeling just as lousy, he still made today all about me. Ironically, most of the gifts he carried in are edible - on the only birthday I've ever turned down chocolate.
So what's gotten into us? It could be water- or food-related or just exhaustion, but whatever it is knocked us both on our asses. After two grueling hours of willing my body forward despite a growing urge to vomit, we decided that, in the long run (or long hike in our case), rest would be more useful than torturing ourselves through miles. So we camped at 11am and I spent my 30th birthday sleeping the day away under a canopy of firs and sugar pines. Definitely not the worst birthday I've ever spent. With a sympathetic boyfriend willing to do anything to make me feel special (I have birthday balloons on my backpack!) I think I've actually got it pretty good. Now if we could just wake up tomorrow, refreshed and healthy, I'd feel even more like the luckiest girl in the world.
"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the things you did do." - Mark Twain
(Editor's Note: Another unpleasant birthday surprise was discovered after writing this entry. Zero the Ultralight Penguin stayed behind in a Mt. Shasta City motel. He was a good friend, and I will miss him.)
Shaggy says:
Last night was rough. It was just one problem after another. Both of us went to sleep with stomach aches. Then the mosquitoes would not let up. They buzzed around our heads just enough to keep us awake. Around midnight I set up the tent. The area for the tent was really too small for our large tent, and we both ended up sleeping on rocky uneven surfaces. Then there were ants, millions, on everything. So as we are throwing our stuff in the tent, we are shaking off ants. They were on everything. Luckily we did hang our food in a tree to keep the rodents out.
This morning we both felt terrible. We had stomach pains and felt really tired. I felt so bad, its Lauren's birthday and we both feel like vomiting. Our dreams of hiking 30 miles today were shattered as we were both exhausted.
We decided to hike to the next water source and call it a day. A whooping 3 mile day. We camped in a saddle and slept most of the day. Though its no fun being sick, we did enjoy resting here. We are both in high spirits, played a few games this afternoon.
We are feeling a bit better this evening, hoping to get back in the groove tomorrow. We also talked about hiking back to town tomorrow and getting a bus up to Etna after a couple days rest. Not ideal, but we may need more rest.
Large wooded campsite
Castle Crags Wilderness
Miles: 3
Trip: 815
Fifteen mile in two days is pretty embarrassing, but I can't imagine going any further than we did today. Our night played out like a bad sitcom: first plagued by mosquitoes; then legions of ants all over my shoes, socks and pack; then wind rocking the tent Andrew hastily erected to escape the insects; and finally an emergency midnight trip to the manzanita bushes to evacuate what felt like very unhappy bowels.
We didn't start hiking until 9am, a sorry start to my ambition of hiking 30 miles on my 30th birthday. I have to credit Andrew big-time though. Even though he was feeling just as lousy, he still made today all about me. Ironically, most of the gifts he carried in are edible - on the only birthday I've ever turned down chocolate.
So what's gotten into us? It could be water- or food-related or just exhaustion, but whatever it is knocked us both on our asses. After two grueling hours of willing my body forward despite a growing urge to vomit, we decided that, in the long run (or long hike in our case), rest would be more useful than torturing ourselves through miles. So we camped at 11am and I spent my 30th birthday sleeping the day away under a canopy of firs and sugar pines. Definitely not the worst birthday I've ever spent. With a sympathetic boyfriend willing to do anything to make me feel special (I have birthday balloons on my backpack!) I think I've actually got it pretty good. Now if we could just wake up tomorrow, refreshed and healthy, I'd feel even more like the luckiest girl in the world.
"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the things you did do." - Mark Twain
(Editor's Note: Another unpleasant birthday surprise was discovered after writing this entry. Zero the Ultralight Penguin stayed behind in a Mt. Shasta City motel. He was a good friend, and I will miss him.)
Shaggy says:
Last night was rough. It was just one problem after another. Both of us went to sleep with stomach aches. Then the mosquitoes would not let up. They buzzed around our heads just enough to keep us awake. Around midnight I set up the tent. The area for the tent was really too small for our large tent, and we both ended up sleeping on rocky uneven surfaces. Then there were ants, millions, on everything. So as we are throwing our stuff in the tent, we are shaking off ants. They were on everything. Luckily we did hang our food in a tree to keep the rodents out.
This morning we both felt terrible. We had stomach pains and felt really tired. I felt so bad, its Lauren's birthday and we both feel like vomiting. Our dreams of hiking 30 miles today were shattered as we were both exhausted.
We decided to hike to the next water source and call it a day. A whooping 3 mile day. We camped in a saddle and slept most of the day. Though its no fun being sick, we did enjoy resting here. We are both in high spirits, played a few games this afternoon.
We are feeling a bit better this evening, hoping to get back in the groove tomorrow. We also talked about hiking back to town tomorrow and getting a bus up to Etna after a couple days rest. Not ideal, but we may need more rest.
 |
| Even birthday balloons couldn't buoy me up today. I leaned on my poles pretty heavy for those three miles. |
 |
| Of course we were sick in on of the nicest parts of the trail - Castle Crags is worth a visit. |
 |
| A dry, limey creek bed reminded us how dry this area can get. |
Friday, October 19, 2012
July 31, 2012 - A Picture-Rich Post
Day 45
Ridge above snaking switchbacks
Castle Crags Wilderness
Miles: 12
Trip: 812
Being in town seems to throw a kink into trail life, at least for me. I'm feeling too relaxed and lazy at night to journal, even though most towns (Mt. Shasta City being a prime example) deserve to be written about. The good news is that I felt very good on the 20-mile hike down to I-5. Apparently all I needed was a decent night's rest, then I was up at dawn and hiking by 6:30am. Hopefully that holds true for tomorrow too. I struggled through every one of our measly 12 miles today, trying to placate an upset stomach that I blame on town. What is it about greasy, fatty, dairy-rich food that puts my system on high alert? Actually, I could probably figure that one out. I did force myself to eat a good dinner though, and now I'm going to force myself to sleep early, even though there is so much more to write about. Hiking comes first!
Ridge above snaking switchbacks
Castle Crags Wilderness
Miles: 12
Trip: 812
Being in town seems to throw a kink into trail life, at least for me. I'm feeling too relaxed and lazy at night to journal, even though most towns (Mt. Shasta City being a prime example) deserve to be written about. The good news is that I felt very good on the 20-mile hike down to I-5. Apparently all I needed was a decent night's rest, then I was up at dawn and hiking by 6:30am. Hopefully that holds true for tomorrow too. I struggled through every one of our measly 12 miles today, trying to placate an upset stomach that I blame on town. What is it about greasy, fatty, dairy-rich food that puts my system on high alert? Actually, I could probably figure that one out. I did force myself to eat a good dinner though, and now I'm going to force myself to sleep early, even though there is so much more to write about. Hiking comes first!
 |
| On our way out of town, Andrew ponders how traveling with an innocent-looking female greatly increases his chances of getting a ride. |
 |
| ...even if that innocent-looking female also looks a little goofy. (The small sign was a laminated card I used, with a dry-erase marker, when we needed to broadcast our need for a ride) |
 |
| I look surprising chipper for someone whose insides felt like Spaghettios. |
 |
| Castle Crags was utterly unique, so I don't feel bad posting many, many pictures. |
 |
| The last of a sunset snags on the edge of one craggy ridge. |
 |
| Da moon! |
Monday, October 15, 2012
July 28, 2012 - Fewer Skeeters, More Hot Tub
Day 42
Just beyond Trough Creek
Shasta National Forest
Elev: 3050 ft.
Miles: 23
Trip 800!!
I knew there would be days like this - tired, hot, bored with walking. And yet, I'd rather be here hiking than almost anywhere and anything else. Okay, drinking a beer in a hot tub crossed my mind a few times. But even as tired as I felt, I still understood that this was my dream, and today was just another aspect of that dream - walking twelve hours through a steamy forest on five hours of sleep. The lack of sleep was courtesy of a few giant (bigger than we've seen since Yosemite, anyway) mosquitoes which crashed our camping-under-the-stars party last night. Andrew finally got fed up and pitched the tent, but both of us had already lost a few hours sleep to the evil buzzing. So we started hiking a bit late again today, and I couldn't seem to motivate my legs the rest of the day. Maybe there's a point in any physically intense endeavor when the body says "No way. I need some rest time before I do any more of this craziness." I just felt heavy and stiff all day. Maybe it's just a symptom of getting older...
"It is not our toughness that keeps us warm. It is our tenderness that makes other people want to keep us warm."
Shaggy says:
The mosquitoes were active last night. We had planned on sleeping out, cowboy style. All went well for about an hour. Then I could not take the mosquitoes any longer. As soon as I was about to fall asleep, the sound of a mosquito buzzing towards me filled my ear. Finally I could not take anymore and I set up the tent.
Fell asleep quickly, but another hour later, I woke to a bloody nose. I think that all the dust lately really messed my sinuses up. It stopped bleeding quickly though, and back to sleep I went.
6 am and we were awake. Not by my choice. Lauren wanted to get a big mileage day in. I could have slept much longer myself.
On we went though. Guess we were both exhausted. Never made great time today. Lauren was stung by a yellow jacket. I had the bear rope rock hit my lip/shoulder/chin. Ow. We are both tired. Havent had a zero mile day since Bridgeport, some 525 miles ago. Looking forward to a day off in the town of Mt. Shasta. Sleep now..
(No pictures today...)
Just beyond Trough Creek
Shasta National Forest
Elev: 3050 ft.
Miles: 23
Trip 800!!
I knew there would be days like this - tired, hot, bored with walking. And yet, I'd rather be here hiking than almost anywhere and anything else. Okay, drinking a beer in a hot tub crossed my mind a few times. But even as tired as I felt, I still understood that this was my dream, and today was just another aspect of that dream - walking twelve hours through a steamy forest on five hours of sleep. The lack of sleep was courtesy of a few giant (bigger than we've seen since Yosemite, anyway) mosquitoes which crashed our camping-under-the-stars party last night. Andrew finally got fed up and pitched the tent, but both of us had already lost a few hours sleep to the evil buzzing. So we started hiking a bit late again today, and I couldn't seem to motivate my legs the rest of the day. Maybe there's a point in any physically intense endeavor when the body says "No way. I need some rest time before I do any more of this craziness." I just felt heavy and stiff all day. Maybe it's just a symptom of getting older...
"It is not our toughness that keeps us warm. It is our tenderness that makes other people want to keep us warm."
Shaggy says:
The mosquitoes were active last night. We had planned on sleeping out, cowboy style. All went well for about an hour. Then I could not take the mosquitoes any longer. As soon as I was about to fall asleep, the sound of a mosquito buzzing towards me filled my ear. Finally I could not take anymore and I set up the tent.
Fell asleep quickly, but another hour later, I woke to a bloody nose. I think that all the dust lately really messed my sinuses up. It stopped bleeding quickly though, and back to sleep I went.
6 am and we were awake. Not by my choice. Lauren wanted to get a big mileage day in. I could have slept much longer myself.
On we went though. Guess we were both exhausted. Never made great time today. Lauren was stung by a yellow jacket. I had the bear rope rock hit my lip/shoulder/chin. Ow. We are both tired. Havent had a zero mile day since Bridgeport, some 525 miles ago. Looking forward to a day off in the town of Mt. Shasta. Sleep now..
(No pictures today...)
July 27, 2012 - Rattlesnake Hurdles
Day 41
Logging area near Gold Creek
Elev: 5400 ft
Miles: 26
Trip: 777
The Olympics kicked off today. I always loved watching the opening ceremony - it was so mind-blowing in Tokyo. It's things like that, landmark events like the Olympics, that I actually do miss out here. The next time the summer Olympics happen, I'll be turning 34! But if I have the chance to thru-hike that year, I'll be happy to miss the Games again. Nothing on TV is as exciting and fulfilling as being out here.
Example: I almost stepped on a rattlesnake this morning! He was just off the trail and my footstep fell a few inches from his coiled body. It was more thrilling than scary, after I realized I wasn't facing a fully-charged, angry snake. He didn't even rattle - probably still morning-sluggish. Then, this evening, a raptor swooped down through a gap in the forest canopy, flew right along the trail, then pulled back up just ten yards in front of me I felt the same reverence I'd felt for the nighthawk; the word majestic came to mind. The bird looked like a hawk, but flew so silently through the trees, maybe it was an owl. Anyway, these riveting brushes with predators are way better than watching gymnastics.
Our plan for the next week is gradually solidifying. We'll reach Dunsmire, CA, on Sunday evening (earlier if we can do more miles tomorrow - maybe my first 30?) then catch a ride to Mt. Shasta where we'll take a very busy zero (no miles hiked) day. Outfitter shopping, food resupply, putting together maildrops (boxes of food to send ahead) and a birthday celebration - all in one day. No wonder we never get much rest in town; there's too much to do!
"We fail far more often by timidity than by daring."
Shaggy says:
Before we started this hike, a lot of folks reminded us of the dangers of embarking on an expedition like this. I have heard it before every long hike. They say to take bear spray, ask if I am worried about bears, snakes, giardia, lymes disease, West Nile, dehydration, sun burn, cliffs, rocks, and rabid animals. I have learned to listen to the concerns, but also let them know that I can handle things okay. My rule is to simply not get myself into a situation I can't get out of.
A little known fact about hiking is that it is much more likely that a person will get injured while in a car on the way to the trailhead. Not much out here can compare to the dangers of moving at 75 miles per an hour in a large chunk of metal, surrounded by other vehicles doing the same. Nope, 2.5 miles per hour is pretty safe, biggest risk is probably a stress fracture. Like the one I received on the Appalachian Trail in 2004. The doctor said I had walked too much. Painfuul, but after two weeks and the help of family driving me to Maine, I was back on the trail.
But honestly, I think I should worry more about my family and friends in the other world. They have to drive everyday! They have stresses that I know little about, mortgages, car loans, and work! My biggest stress is staying healthy and eating enough to do that.
We did have an encounter with a rattlesnake today, first one on the trail. Lauren walked right past it, jumped just as she saw him, 4" from her right leg. I watched as his head followed her leg. This was not an agressive snake, he quickly retreated to the nearby shrubs. It was exciting and scary at the same time. Had she kicked the snake or hit him with her pole, it may have snapped at her. Glad we made it through!
We had a great day though. A little cooler than yesteerday, and the views of Mt Shasta have been spectacular. Though this section is a bit monotonous, it has proven to be better than people had warned us about. I think the worse sections of the PCT may still be better than the best of the AT. Life is good, and we feel alive!
Lauren even gave me a foot rub tonight, as my new shoes are so uncomfortable. Very sweet, how am I so lucky?
Logging area near Gold Creek
Elev: 5400 ft
Miles: 26
Trip: 777
The Olympics kicked off today. I always loved watching the opening ceremony - it was so mind-blowing in Tokyo. It's things like that, landmark events like the Olympics, that I actually do miss out here. The next time the summer Olympics happen, I'll be turning 34! But if I have the chance to thru-hike that year, I'll be happy to miss the Games again. Nothing on TV is as exciting and fulfilling as being out here.
Example: I almost stepped on a rattlesnake this morning! He was just off the trail and my footstep fell a few inches from his coiled body. It was more thrilling than scary, after I realized I wasn't facing a fully-charged, angry snake. He didn't even rattle - probably still morning-sluggish. Then, this evening, a raptor swooped down through a gap in the forest canopy, flew right along the trail, then pulled back up just ten yards in front of me I felt the same reverence I'd felt for the nighthawk; the word majestic came to mind. The bird looked like a hawk, but flew so silently through the trees, maybe it was an owl. Anyway, these riveting brushes with predators are way better than watching gymnastics.
Our plan for the next week is gradually solidifying. We'll reach Dunsmire, CA, on Sunday evening (earlier if we can do more miles tomorrow - maybe my first 30?) then catch a ride to Mt. Shasta where we'll take a very busy zero (no miles hiked) day. Outfitter shopping, food resupply, putting together maildrops (boxes of food to send ahead) and a birthday celebration - all in one day. No wonder we never get much rest in town; there's too much to do!
"We fail far more often by timidity than by daring."
Shaggy says:
Before we started this hike, a lot of folks reminded us of the dangers of embarking on an expedition like this. I have heard it before every long hike. They say to take bear spray, ask if I am worried about bears, snakes, giardia, lymes disease, West Nile, dehydration, sun burn, cliffs, rocks, and rabid animals. I have learned to listen to the concerns, but also let them know that I can handle things okay. My rule is to simply not get myself into a situation I can't get out of.
A little known fact about hiking is that it is much more likely that a person will get injured while in a car on the way to the trailhead. Not much out here can compare to the dangers of moving at 75 miles per an hour in a large chunk of metal, surrounded by other vehicles doing the same. Nope, 2.5 miles per hour is pretty safe, biggest risk is probably a stress fracture. Like the one I received on the Appalachian Trail in 2004. The doctor said I had walked too much. Painfuul, but after two weeks and the help of family driving me to Maine, I was back on the trail.
But honestly, I think I should worry more about my family and friends in the other world. They have to drive everyday! They have stresses that I know little about, mortgages, car loans, and work! My biggest stress is staying healthy and eating enough to do that.
We did have an encounter with a rattlesnake today, first one on the trail. Lauren walked right past it, jumped just as she saw him, 4" from her right leg. I watched as his head followed her leg. This was not an agressive snake, he quickly retreated to the nearby shrubs. It was exciting and scary at the same time. Had she kicked the snake or hit him with her pole, it may have snapped at her. Glad we made it through!
We had a great day though. A little cooler than yesteerday, and the views of Mt Shasta have been spectacular. Though this section is a bit monotonous, it has proven to be better than people had warned us about. I think the worse sections of the PCT may still be better than the best of the AT. Life is good, and we feel alive!
Lauren even gave me a foot rub tonight, as my new shoes are so uncomfortable. Very sweet, how am I so lucky?
 |
| Lava flow: pretty to look at, torture to walk on. |
 |
| Lookout Rock. For the life of me, I don't know how it got that name... |
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| That, folks, is a very special phenomenon called the Dirt Tan. |
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| For those hikers starting in Mexico, this was the 1500 mile mark. We passed little nature-mosaics like this at lots of big milestones. |
Sunday, October 14, 2012
July 26, 2012 - Lava tubes - just as cool as they sound
Peavine Creek
Next to one of many red-dirt roads
Elev: 4750
Miles: 23
Trip: 751
A couple of undocumented days doesn't sound like much, but Monday at Hat Creek Rim already seems like so long ago. The constant presence of civilization made the last 50 miles fly by, yet also stretch on interminably. Four towns (I define a "town" as anyplace with flush toilets) in one week, so many trail magic coolers I felt spoiled, and a Super Trail Angel who took pride in chauffeuring and assisting hikers any way he could (Thanks Steve!!). It's all very easy to enjoy, and much-appreciated, but I sometimes miss the Sierra days when showers and burgers were rare luxuries. Andrew's idea of skipping Ashland, OR, is sounding better and better.
It was two days ago, but I have to mention the hike on Hat Creek Rim. Not nearly as hot as we'd feared, although we still walked out of Old Station carrying 7 liters of water each. Visiting a cool lava tube helped - a volcanic eruption tunneled out underground channels with lava, which tourists can now visit with just a short walk from the road. The tubes were at least 30 degrees cooler than the desert above them!
Even though Andrew and I had a tense dinner together, the night hike was still exciting for me. I like to take my time eating and he likes to take advantage of every minute of daylight, so our dinner breaks are sometimes an exercise in patience and compromise. I finally urged him on ahead and enjoyed an hour of solo night-hiking after the sun set. Finally saw a nighthawk! So graceful and silent on its long wings, I felt awed and lucky to be so close - and wished Andrew had shared the moment with me.
Today I brought up the idea of a few days of solo camping, something I'd like like to try if we can work out the logistics. Even though I love hiking and camping with Andrew, I feel the need to be completely responsible for myself, to prove I can be out here alone. I started backpacking as a solo hiker, and I sometimes miss the solitude and self-reliance. I'm sure I'll miss him, but it would only be for a few days.
Shaggy says:
Trail angel Steve reminded us yesterday that us hikers complain a lot! He of course was joking, but its also very true. Anything we get a chance to complain about, we do. Mosquitoes, blisters, back aches, heavy packs, chaffing, worn out shoes, just to name a few.
Some days we have to remind ourselves that we made the choice to be out here. Today I had some of those moments. I sent new shoes to Drakesbad a few days ago, and carried them 60 miles to Burney where I trashed the old pair. The old pair had seen about 450 miles, really good for a pair of runners on trail. But this new pair feels very uncomfortable. Have my feet really grown more? I hope not, size 16 is hard enough to find. This new pair is so uncomfortable that after 10 miles of hiking today, I called Zappos and ordered a new pair, sent to the next town. Really hoping my feet arent swelling up...
Because I was walking funny with the new shoes I was also gifted by the chafe fairy. All the areas I should not mention here were pretty badly chaffed by the end of today. This causes me to walk even funnier.
I think the chaffing caused my back to hurt. Hunched over, walking like a duck! Wow my life is hard. I would still rather be out here on a hike than be a lot of places. Despite the chaffage, sore back, and achy feet.
We left Burney pretty late after breakfast with Steady and trail angel Steve. They then gave us a ride back to the trail. The trail was easy walking and we have hiked over 22 miles after 11 AM.
I am exhausted. Time to rest.
Next to one of many red-dirt roads
Elev: 4750
Miles: 23
Trip: 751
A couple of undocumented days doesn't sound like much, but Monday at Hat Creek Rim already seems like so long ago. The constant presence of civilization made the last 50 miles fly by, yet also stretch on interminably. Four towns (I define a "town" as anyplace with flush toilets) in one week, so many trail magic coolers I felt spoiled, and a Super Trail Angel who took pride in chauffeuring and assisting hikers any way he could (Thanks Steve!!). It's all very easy to enjoy, and much-appreciated, but I sometimes miss the Sierra days when showers and burgers were rare luxuries. Andrew's idea of skipping Ashland, OR, is sounding better and better.
It was two days ago, but I have to mention the hike on Hat Creek Rim. Not nearly as hot as we'd feared, although we still walked out of Old Station carrying 7 liters of water each. Visiting a cool lava tube helped - a volcanic eruption tunneled out underground channels with lava, which tourists can now visit with just a short walk from the road. The tubes were at least 30 degrees cooler than the desert above them!
Even though Andrew and I had a tense dinner together, the night hike was still exciting for me. I like to take my time eating and he likes to take advantage of every minute of daylight, so our dinner breaks are sometimes an exercise in patience and compromise. I finally urged him on ahead and enjoyed an hour of solo night-hiking after the sun set. Finally saw a nighthawk! So graceful and silent on its long wings, I felt awed and lucky to be so close - and wished Andrew had shared the moment with me.
Today I brought up the idea of a few days of solo camping, something I'd like like to try if we can work out the logistics. Even though I love hiking and camping with Andrew, I feel the need to be completely responsible for myself, to prove I can be out here alone. I started backpacking as a solo hiker, and I sometimes miss the solitude and self-reliance. I'm sure I'll miss him, but it would only be for a few days.
Shaggy says:
Trail angel Steve reminded us yesterday that us hikers complain a lot! He of course was joking, but its also very true. Anything we get a chance to complain about, we do. Mosquitoes, blisters, back aches, heavy packs, chaffing, worn out shoes, just to name a few.
Some days we have to remind ourselves that we made the choice to be out here. Today I had some of those moments. I sent new shoes to Drakesbad a few days ago, and carried them 60 miles to Burney where I trashed the old pair. The old pair had seen about 450 miles, really good for a pair of runners on trail. But this new pair feels very uncomfortable. Have my feet really grown more? I hope not, size 16 is hard enough to find. This new pair is so uncomfortable that after 10 miles of hiking today, I called Zappos and ordered a new pair, sent to the next town. Really hoping my feet arent swelling up...
Because I was walking funny with the new shoes I was also gifted by the chafe fairy. All the areas I should not mention here were pretty badly chaffed by the end of today. This causes me to walk even funnier.
I think the chaffing caused my back to hurt. Hunched over, walking like a duck! Wow my life is hard. I would still rather be out here on a hike than be a lot of places. Despite the chaffage, sore back, and achy feet.
We left Burney pretty late after breakfast with Steady and trail angel Steve. They then gave us a ride back to the trail. The trail was easy walking and we have hiked over 22 miles after 11 AM.
I am exhausted. Time to rest.
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| A lava cave on the way to Hat Creek Rim...very spooky. |
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| Not so spooky on the inside though - plus, it was nice and cool! |
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| Emerging from the lava tube.It was a full-on tourist experience, with interpretive signs and whole extended families snapping pictures. |
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| Scrubby desert, still beautiful though. Possibly Lassen Peak in the back... |
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| Russian thistle! |
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| Yes, these are mine. Nature does some pretty un-pretty things to the body; it ain't all mud spas and steam baths. |
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| Shasta by night. |
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| Shasta by day. |
July 23, 2012 - Strategic Weather Evasion
Day 38
Hat Creek, near Old Station
Miles: not sure...
Trip: 658 + not sure = ?
Our first rainstorm today, and our timing couldn't have been better. When we left Drakesbad (after a never-ending breakfast and playful soak in the pool-sized hot tub) there were some suspicious-looking clouds peeking over the ridge. They grew with deep rumbling and finally let loose with pea-sized hail and a drenching rain. Or so we deduced from the piles of hailstones and deeply trenched trail - we missed the actual storm by 30 minutes! Lucky hikers - we still got the cooling effect of the clouds, which may last through the upcoming and infamous Hat Creek Rim. My favorite part of a forest rain is the smells it unlocks. Afterward, the scents of vanilla-cinnamon-sugar from Ponderosa pine, fresh cedar bark, the soft citrus of sage brush - all intensified in the evaporating moisture.
We've been getting to know some hikers over the past several days, sharing meals at Drakesbad and marveling at trail angels' kindness. As much as I love Andrew (and that's a lot) it's refreshing to have other personalities around. Tonight Paws and I sat and joked around the fire long after Andrew had retired to the tent. Someone to talk to who doesn't know all my stories - that's what's missing when you travel with your better half.
Shaggy says:
Then we ate the drakesbad breakfast. It was incredible. Cereal, oatmeal, toast, quiche, croissants, tea, coffee. When we had eaten everything on the table, the waitress asked if we were still hungry. We all glanced at each other and quickly replied, "not yet". We were then given eggs and potatoes and pinto beans. All of this for $5. I love Drakesbad.
When we had finished eating, Lauren and I went for one last hot springs swim. I wanted to pay our tab, but the entire staff at the ranch was in a meeting. The owner of Drakesbad came down to the pool and asked if I was Andrew. I had not paid my tab yet and she was a bit concerned. I quickly paid it and let her know that I would never run off without paying a tab, and hoped no other hikers would either. I feel kind of bad that they would assume I was not going to pay, not a good feeling to be wrongly accused. I hope that no hikers would skip out on any tab, particularly a $10 amazing dinner at Drakesbad!
We were finally on the trail by 11 AM. Hard to leave the vortex of Drakesbad. We made great time all day long. It was flat. Flattest stretch of trail I have seen yet.
We dodged a thunderstorm somehow. It dumped a ton of hail a couple miles up from where we waited under a tree.
We leap-frogged with Easy Miles, Steady, Paws, and Hamburger all day.
20 miles today. We are camped just a few miles from Old Station. Plan to get there early and stay until the evening when we will take off and begin a 29 mile waterless stretch. I look forward to it =).
Hat Creek, near Old Station
Miles: not sure...
Trip: 658 + not sure = ?
Our first rainstorm today, and our timing couldn't have been better. When we left Drakesbad (after a never-ending breakfast and playful soak in the pool-sized hot tub) there were some suspicious-looking clouds peeking over the ridge. They grew with deep rumbling and finally let loose with pea-sized hail and a drenching rain. Or so we deduced from the piles of hailstones and deeply trenched trail - we missed the actual storm by 30 minutes! Lucky hikers - we still got the cooling effect of the clouds, which may last through the upcoming and infamous Hat Creek Rim. My favorite part of a forest rain is the smells it unlocks. Afterward, the scents of vanilla-cinnamon-sugar from Ponderosa pine, fresh cedar bark, the soft citrus of sage brush - all intensified in the evaporating moisture.
We've been getting to know some hikers over the past several days, sharing meals at Drakesbad and marveling at trail angels' kindness. As much as I love Andrew (and that's a lot) it's refreshing to have other personalities around. Tonight Paws and I sat and joked around the fire long after Andrew had retired to the tent. Someone to talk to who doesn't know all my stories - that's what's missing when you travel with your better half.
Shaggy says:
Then we ate the drakesbad breakfast. It was incredible. Cereal, oatmeal, toast, quiche, croissants, tea, coffee. When we had eaten everything on the table, the waitress asked if we were still hungry. We all glanced at each other and quickly replied, "not yet". We were then given eggs and potatoes and pinto beans. All of this for $5. I love Drakesbad.
When we had finished eating, Lauren and I went for one last hot springs swim. I wanted to pay our tab, but the entire staff at the ranch was in a meeting. The owner of Drakesbad came down to the pool and asked if I was Andrew. I had not paid my tab yet and she was a bit concerned. I quickly paid it and let her know that I would never run off without paying a tab, and hoped no other hikers would either. I feel kind of bad that they would assume I was not going to pay, not a good feeling to be wrongly accused. I hope that no hikers would skip out on any tab, particularly a $10 amazing dinner at Drakesbad!
We were finally on the trail by 11 AM. Hard to leave the vortex of Drakesbad. We made great time all day long. It was flat. Flattest stretch of trail I have seen yet.
We dodged a thunderstorm somehow. It dumped a ton of hail a couple miles up from where we waited under a tree.
We leap-frogged with Easy Miles, Steady, Paws, and Hamburger all day.
20 miles today. We are camped just a few miles from Old Station. Plan to get there early and stay until the evening when we will take off and begin a 29 mile waterless stretch. I look forward to it =).
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| Silvery lupine leaves and the lavender blossoms really spruced up this gnarly forest. |
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| Oh god! A giant lady bug is being engulfed by this tree! Nah, it's just a funky trail marker the tree is eating... |
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| Hmmm, maybe we should lay low at the lake for a while while hail pummels the next few miles of trail. |
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| Yup, that turned out to be a good idea. It isn't enormous, but I still say these hailstones may have made hiking unpleasant. |
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| Andrew playing on nature's jungle gym near our Hat Creek camp. |
July 22, 2012 - Vicarious Adventurers
Day 37
Campground near Drakesbad Guest Ranch
Miles: 22
Trip: 658
I think I must have died on the trail today, because this place feels suspiciously like heaven. Odd, considering the heavy scent of sulfur in the air - but when we arrived we were greeted by angels. The staff of Drakesbad directed us to free hot showers, took our dusty stinky clothes and fed us gourmet food until we were happily over-full. They even let us relax in the hot spring pool with the clean and civilized paying guests. For all this they charged us $10 each (breakfast will be another whopping $5).
I still have trouble understanding why some people are so generous to thru-hikers. Most of us aren't raising money for charities, we aren't on an expedition to discover miracle medicines in the mountains - we're just walking, just for ourselves. It's a pretty selfish journey, really. So why do some people treat us like heroes who deserve more than those working hard to support families, being every-day Americans? Dayhikers talk to us with awe in their voices, even though I'm sure they could do the same thing given enough time and motivation. My only theory is that these admirers and angels want to be a part of the journey any way they can, to feel like they own a little part of it. If they help us, they satisfy a little of their adventure-lust. And I'll gladly help them do that.
Shaggy says:
Amazing day. Seriously. Food just did not stop coming. Around noon and the North Fork of the Feather River, we found a cooler with goodies left by Ninja's mom. She then showed up with even more food. String cheese, soda, sandwiches, and beer. Hard to leave that spot.
Then we marched on to Drakesbad. We had heard stories of Drakesbad Guest Ranch giving hikers huge amounts of food for very little money. We had no idea what to expect. Upon arrival we were given loaner clothes to wear while they washed our clothes. Then they showed us where the shower was. After lounging for another 2 hours in the hammocks and chairs, we were given dinner. It was family style. So for me, Lauren, Paws, Hamburger, Easy Miles, and Skeeter, we gorged. A plate full of rice, a plate full of veggies, a plate full of tender juicy slabs of pork, a plate full of potatoes, and a plate of eggplant parmesan. When I say a plate full, I mean a heaping mound on a large plate. Also 2 loaves of fresh bread. This was also followed by cheesecake. All of this for just $10 a person. I love this place.
We took a swim in the hot springs pool and are camped half a mile from the ranch. This will provide easy access to the all you can eat breakfast buffet in the morning.
We hiked 22 miles today and I would hike 22 miles everyday if it involved a hiker dinner at Drakesbad Ranch with great company. Amazing. Its after 10 pm though now, time for sleep.
Campground near Drakesbad Guest Ranch
Miles: 22
Trip: 658
I think I must have died on the trail today, because this place feels suspiciously like heaven. Odd, considering the heavy scent of sulfur in the air - but when we arrived we were greeted by angels. The staff of Drakesbad directed us to free hot showers, took our dusty stinky clothes and fed us gourmet food until we were happily over-full. They even let us relax in the hot spring pool with the clean and civilized paying guests. For all this they charged us $10 each (breakfast will be another whopping $5).
I still have trouble understanding why some people are so generous to thru-hikers. Most of us aren't raising money for charities, we aren't on an expedition to discover miracle medicines in the mountains - we're just walking, just for ourselves. It's a pretty selfish journey, really. So why do some people treat us like heroes who deserve more than those working hard to support families, being every-day Americans? Dayhikers talk to us with awe in their voices, even though I'm sure they could do the same thing given enough time and motivation. My only theory is that these admirers and angels want to be a part of the journey any way they can, to feel like they own a little part of it. If they help us, they satisfy a little of their adventure-lust. And I'll gladly help them do that.
Shaggy says:
Amazing day. Seriously. Food just did not stop coming. Around noon and the North Fork of the Feather River, we found a cooler with goodies left by Ninja's mom. She then showed up with even more food. String cheese, soda, sandwiches, and beer. Hard to leave that spot.
Then we marched on to Drakesbad. We had heard stories of Drakesbad Guest Ranch giving hikers huge amounts of food for very little money. We had no idea what to expect. Upon arrival we were given loaner clothes to wear while they washed our clothes. Then they showed us where the shower was. After lounging for another 2 hours in the hammocks and chairs, we were given dinner. It was family style. So for me, Lauren, Paws, Hamburger, Easy Miles, and Skeeter, we gorged. A plate full of rice, a plate full of veggies, a plate full of tender juicy slabs of pork, a plate full of potatoes, and a plate of eggplant parmesan. When I say a plate full, I mean a heaping mound on a large plate. Also 2 loaves of fresh bread. This was also followed by cheesecake. All of this for just $10 a person. I love this place.
We took a swim in the hot springs pool and are camped half a mile from the ranch. This will provide easy access to the all you can eat breakfast buffet in the morning.
We hiked 22 miles today and I would hike 22 miles everyday if it involved a hiker dinner at Drakesbad Ranch with great company. Amazing. Its after 10 pm though now, time for sleep.
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| This guy had just snatched a termite out of a spider's web when I snapped his photo. Stealing is only a crime in the human world. |
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| Thermal feature near Drakesbad, in Lassen National Forest. The green pool in the background smelled exactly like rotten eggs - delicious. |
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| Shaggy walks the boardwalk to Drakesbad. I recommend this place to anyone who wants a quiet retreat in N. Cali - and who enjoys a hot soak. |
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| The breakfast spread - quiche, oatmeal, toast, potatoes, beans, eggs...dinner was even better, but everyone was too busy eating to photograph |
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| Marmot Patrol! This little dude has a posh life, eating food scraps and staying warm near the hot spring - and squeaking loudly at rowdy hikers. |
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| Drakesbad is a special place for hikers - as long as you don't travel in large groups. There's only so much food!! |
Tuesday, October 9, 2012
July 21, 2012 - Some Hikers Aren't Toilet-Trained
Day 36
Lassen National Forest
Elev: 5700 ft
Miles: 27
Trip: 636
Almost had my first 30-miler today, thanks to Easy Miles' therapeutic tape job and the mellow terrain.But my stomach and my foot demanded that we stop before the 30-mile mark, and when we reached Hamburger and Easy Miles camped so cozily at this creek, it was too ideal to pass up. Or it would be ideal if someone hadn't confused one tentsite with a latrine. I'm boggled as to how any person, let alone a PCT hiker, could think that pooping 20 feet from water, in a spot where people sleep, is an okay thing to do. Well, even we hikers have idiots among us.
Tomorrow should be a fun day. We're only 14 miles from the North Fork Feather River, where I'm hoping to find a respectable swimming hole (with few mosquitoes). Then it's on to Drakesbad, stopping at some thermal features on the way. I don't expect them to measure up to Yellowstone, but still - geysers are geysers! Finally, Drakesbad with its hotspring pool and reportedly fantastic food, served cheap to hikers. If my lower limbs behave, we should be there by dinner time.
"If we looked at eating as an activity to relish, rather than an invitation to gluttony, we would all be not only healthier but happier"
Shaggy says:
Our first sizeable waterless stretch was today. Only 13 miles, but our longest yet on this trip. For me its no big deal, in fact its kind of fun to see how far I can carry water for. On the Hayduke Trail, d=rt and I went 20 miles regularly without water. Longest stretch for me has been around 40 miles.
Lauren is adapting to the dryness too. She was nervous about having to conserve water when we started this hike. We make a point to talk about where the next water is, and estimate how long it will take to get there. We are making it work.
We have a much larger waterless stretch coming up. 33 miles along the Hat Creek Rim. When I was first made aware of this long stretch, I was in Sierra City. I overheard someone talking about a water cache that helps make the section shorter. I couldnt help myself from telling them my concerns with water caches. If people depend on these caches, eventually someone will get there and find no water. This happened to a friend of mine on the PCT in 2006. It is also littering, leaving jugs of water on the trail in the middle of nowhere, not cool. I could rant more, but why? My point is that Lauren and I will carry 33 miles of water and will love the fact that we are self reliant enough to get through without support.
We did get some support today that I would never turn down. The support came in the form of pizza, soda, gatorade, pringles, candy, and water at a trailhead. A thru-hikers husband named Steve was performing trail magic. He gave us all kinds of goodies. The food just kept coming. Super nice guy. This is much different than a water cache though. We were not expecting Steve to treat us, and though we could have survived without the goodies, it was much appreciated!
The miles seemed to fly by today and we did over 27 miles total. It felt good too. Though our feet are tired, it was one of the best 25 mile days yet.
We leap-frogged with Itchy, Double Sprainbow, Hamburger, and Easy Miles all day. Starting to feel as if we have a group we belong with. One thing I will never get over is how many different types of people there are out here, and how we mostly all get along. Tonight we are camped with a 59 year old lawyer from Portland and a 60-something year old man from Germany. Both of them are people I would likely never talk to in my other life. But out here we are sharing a common goal, and go through the same struggles and joys everyday. Thru-hiking is truly magical!
Lassen National Forest
Elev: 5700 ft
Miles: 27
Trip: 636
Almost had my first 30-miler today, thanks to Easy Miles' therapeutic tape job and the mellow terrain.But my stomach and my foot demanded that we stop before the 30-mile mark, and when we reached Hamburger and Easy Miles camped so cozily at this creek, it was too ideal to pass up. Or it would be ideal if someone hadn't confused one tentsite with a latrine. I'm boggled as to how any person, let alone a PCT hiker, could think that pooping 20 feet from water, in a spot where people sleep, is an okay thing to do. Well, even we hikers have idiots among us.
Tomorrow should be a fun day. We're only 14 miles from the North Fork Feather River, where I'm hoping to find a respectable swimming hole (with few mosquitoes). Then it's on to Drakesbad, stopping at some thermal features on the way. I don't expect them to measure up to Yellowstone, but still - geysers are geysers! Finally, Drakesbad with its hotspring pool and reportedly fantastic food, served cheap to hikers. If my lower limbs behave, we should be there by dinner time.
"If we looked at eating as an activity to relish, rather than an invitation to gluttony, we would all be not only healthier but happier"
Shaggy says:
Our first sizeable waterless stretch was today. Only 13 miles, but our longest yet on this trip. For me its no big deal, in fact its kind of fun to see how far I can carry water for. On the Hayduke Trail, d=rt and I went 20 miles regularly without water. Longest stretch for me has been around 40 miles.
Lauren is adapting to the dryness too. She was nervous about having to conserve water when we started this hike. We make a point to talk about where the next water is, and estimate how long it will take to get there. We are making it work.
We have a much larger waterless stretch coming up. 33 miles along the Hat Creek Rim. When I was first made aware of this long stretch, I was in Sierra City. I overheard someone talking about a water cache that helps make the section shorter. I couldnt help myself from telling them my concerns with water caches. If people depend on these caches, eventually someone will get there and find no water. This happened to a friend of mine on the PCT in 2006. It is also littering, leaving jugs of water on the trail in the middle of nowhere, not cool. I could rant more, but why? My point is that Lauren and I will carry 33 miles of water and will love the fact that we are self reliant enough to get through without support.
We did get some support today that I would never turn down. The support came in the form of pizza, soda, gatorade, pringles, candy, and water at a trailhead. A thru-hikers husband named Steve was performing trail magic. He gave us all kinds of goodies. The food just kept coming. Super nice guy. This is much different than a water cache though. We were not expecting Steve to treat us, and though we could have survived without the goodies, it was much appreciated!
The miles seemed to fly by today and we did over 27 miles total. It felt good too. Though our feet are tired, it was one of the best 25 mile days yet.
We leap-frogged with Itchy, Double Sprainbow, Hamburger, and Easy Miles all day. Starting to feel as if we have a group we belong with. One thing I will never get over is how many different types of people there are out here, and how we mostly all get along. Tonight we are camped with a 59 year old lawyer from Portland and a 60-something year old man from Germany. Both of them are people I would likely never talk to in my other life. But out here we are sharing a common goal, and go through the same struggles and joys everyday. Thru-hiking is truly magical!
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| Signing the register at the half-way point - for full-PCT hikers like Easy Miles back there.This was roughly our quarter-way point. |
July 20, 2012 - Gypsy Mail for Gypsy Hikers
Day 35
North of Chips Creek
Lassen National Forest
Elev: 6600 ft
Miles: 16
Trip: 609
Usually it's hard for me to extract myself from town, but Belden was easy to leave. For one, we'd only been on the trail four days when we arrived - not enough to start yearning for town time. Also, while the Braatens are supremely kind and pleasant, the actual town of Belden holds little appeal for an energetic hiker. Roadside blackberries and amazing milkshakes (made with said blackberries) can't keep one's interest for long.
The Post Office, however, was plenty interesting. The post mistress makes her home at the office (or the office at her home, whichever came first), complete with kitchen attached to the front mail counter. The whole place has the eclectic aura of a gypsy caravan wagon crossed with a rummage sale, all permeated with the scent of nag champa incense. All this overseen (very capably) by a woman named Dorothy, who pointed us toward an easier access to the PCT after pulling our boxes from a tall pile.
We saw a lot of familiar faces at the Braatens: Double Sprainbow and Itchy, Creeper and Carpenter, Old Geezer and Easy Miles. It seems we may be forming our own hiker bubble at last. Hopefully some hikers from the big group behind us will catch up - particularly Soren and Justin. It would be so refreshing to see someone who knows me from my former life...although we would probably still talk only about hiking.
I couldn't do as many miles as I wanted to today, although I felt strong up all the big hills. When things flattened out, my shin and calf (now the left leg!) had a bad twinge. But the tape job Easy Miles did has helped the swelling go down.
"Say yes to life, even though you know it may devour you."
Shaggy says:
"Wander a whole summer if you can. If you are business-tangled and so burdened by duty that only weeks can be got out of the heavy laden year, give a month at least. The time will not be taken from the sum of life. Instead it will be indefinitely lengthen it and make you truly immortal." -- John Muir
This quote makes me feel really good about hiking for several months. No, I am not missing 7 months of work. I am truly doing something that may not only live longer, but have something to remember doing... Oh that summer of 2012!
I often think about this trail we are walking, and why we are walking it. Its hard to say why folks hike the trail. For the glory? But really what glory is it? Walking long distances is not for everyone by any means, but the glory after finishing aa long trip wears off fast. Then you are stuck with your own feelings of the trip. The memories of the sunrises, sunsets, pain, the feelings of success and failure, sometimes at the same time. Whatever it is, I do love it.
We enjoyed a leisurely morning of milkshakes and breakfast at the Caribou Cafe. Then on to the trail thanks to Brendaa Braaten. Extremely nice of them to host us and drive us around town.
When we finally started hiking it was around noon. Hot hot hot down at 2000 feet. We had a long way to go up too. 5000 feet up. It was a long, sometimes steep climb. We made it up and over and camped early. Crazy to think 15 miles and 5000 feet up after noon is an easy day. I must have left my toiletries at the Braatens. Guess me and Lauren will share a toothbrush for a couple days... not sure if its love or just plain gross.
North of Chips Creek
Lassen National Forest
Elev: 6600 ft
Miles: 16
Trip: 609
Usually it's hard for me to extract myself from town, but Belden was easy to leave. For one, we'd only been on the trail four days when we arrived - not enough to start yearning for town time. Also, while the Braatens are supremely kind and pleasant, the actual town of Belden holds little appeal for an energetic hiker. Roadside blackberries and amazing milkshakes (made with said blackberries) can't keep one's interest for long.
The Post Office, however, was plenty interesting. The post mistress makes her home at the office (or the office at her home, whichever came first), complete with kitchen attached to the front mail counter. The whole place has the eclectic aura of a gypsy caravan wagon crossed with a rummage sale, all permeated with the scent of nag champa incense. All this overseen (very capably) by a woman named Dorothy, who pointed us toward an easier access to the PCT after pulling our boxes from a tall pile.
We saw a lot of familiar faces at the Braatens: Double Sprainbow and Itchy, Creeper and Carpenter, Old Geezer and Easy Miles. It seems we may be forming our own hiker bubble at last. Hopefully some hikers from the big group behind us will catch up - particularly Soren and Justin. It would be so refreshing to see someone who knows me from my former life...although we would probably still talk only about hiking.
I couldn't do as many miles as I wanted to today, although I felt strong up all the big hills. When things flattened out, my shin and calf (now the left leg!) had a bad twinge. But the tape job Easy Miles did has helped the swelling go down.
"Say yes to life, even though you know it may devour you."
Shaggy says:
"Wander a whole summer if you can. If you are business-tangled and so burdened by duty that only weeks can be got out of the heavy laden year, give a month at least. The time will not be taken from the sum of life. Instead it will be indefinitely lengthen it and make you truly immortal." -- John Muir
This quote makes me feel really good about hiking for several months. No, I am not missing 7 months of work. I am truly doing something that may not only live longer, but have something to remember doing... Oh that summer of 2012!
I often think about this trail we are walking, and why we are walking it. Its hard to say why folks hike the trail. For the glory? But really what glory is it? Walking long distances is not for everyone by any means, but the glory after finishing aa long trip wears off fast. Then you are stuck with your own feelings of the trip. The memories of the sunrises, sunsets, pain, the feelings of success and failure, sometimes at the same time. Whatever it is, I do love it.
We enjoyed a leisurely morning of milkshakes and breakfast at the Caribou Cafe. Then on to the trail thanks to Brendaa Braaten. Extremely nice of them to host us and drive us around town.
When we finally started hiking it was around noon. Hot hot hot down at 2000 feet. We had a long way to go up too. 5000 feet up. It was a long, sometimes steep climb. We made it up and over and camped early. Crazy to think 15 miles and 5000 feet up after noon is an easy day. I must have left my toiletries at the Braatens. Guess me and Lauren will share a toothbrush for a couple days... not sure if its love or just plain gross.
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| The leftover frozen fudge from Christmas sees new life on the trail. |
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| Don't ask me what mountain that is on the left...I'll just say "A purdy one" |
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