August 13, 2012 - Music Spinach and Let-Down BBQ

Day 58
Above Six Horses Springs
Miles: 25
Trip: 1028

I stayed up tonight, socializing with Hotshot, Snausage and Shaggy so this entry will be short. I want to get hiking by 7am tomorrow, hopefully regain the strong rhythm I had pumping today. For a full 22 miles, I felt like the trail was a competition on my home track, and the race was mine. From 8am on, my pace was around three miles an hour - very speedy for me. I hate to give technology so much credit (since a well-rested, well-fed body did all the physical work), but my mental state was all music-enhanced. Listening to my iPod transformed a stop-and-go, inconsistent pace into a steady steam engine stride. Music may just be my spinach.

We also got the treat of Thielsen Peak and Creek, both reminiscent of bygone Sierra days. The terrain after that was more vanilla, but still pretty and very smooth hiking. Even a little snow on the trail for variety!

We hit the Oregon/Washington PCT highpoint (not nearly Forrester caliber, but still a respectable 7,560 feet) and tried calling Andrew's friends d=rt and Tree. Andrew hiked with these crazy cats in 2007, and shared an apartment with d=rt for a year in Helena (yes, d=rt is his trail name. It is the physics equation for distance = rate x time). We'll be staying with them when we get to Bend and wanted to give them our ETA. Strangely, both their phones were out of service range...

We found out why in a few hours, with one of the deepest disappointments of our trip so far. In the middle of a trail intersection, a note under a rock from Tree said we'd just missed them - and a BBQ!? APparently they were on the PCT only two hours before we passed, although the BBQ part is still a mystery. BBQ chicken? Pulled pork? The speculation tortured us for the last five miles, along with the agonizing questions of why we hadn't known they'd be here!

Well, all will be revealed when we get to Bend. Hopefully, taking this alternate route tomorrow will mean Bend happens sooner than we'd planned. Then d=rt and Tree have some 'splainin to do!

"It is only in adventure that some people succeed in knowing themselves - in finding themselves"

Shaggy says:

       The day was great. We hiked 25 miles and Lauren said it was the first time she felt good doing that many miles. She flew today too. I honestly had trouble keeping up with her.
   We hiked the first 8 miles by ourselves. It felt good to hike at my own pace and in such an amazing place. Tielson Creek was beautiful. Crystal clear freezing cold runoff coming right off of Mt. Tielson. Its amazing how a little thing like good tasting water can really make a hikers day great.
   The day seemed to fly by. We spent a lot of time dreaming of the food, beer, and company we will have in Bend in a few days. Then, around 3 pm we found a note on the trail, it read... 8/13  12:45 PM, Shaggy and Grolar Bear- sorry you missed the bbq, we will see you in Bend in a few days... Tree, d=rt, and Sage. We missed them by 2 hours! Our minds raced as we tried to figure out when the bbq was, where it was, and how far we were from a road. We were also, of course, sad to miss Tree and d=rt. Would have loved to play with Tree's dog Sage too. We were both frustrated and excited to see them soon.
    Now its 9 pm, time to sleep. I am really enjoying our new friends company, Snausage and Hot Shot. Glad we have gotten to know them and hope we will see them more in the future.

Thielsen Peak. Some hikers take a sidetrip to climb this big daddy but we didn't have that part of the guide...next time!

August 12, 2012 - Pricey Gadgets, Free Water

Day 57
Small campsite off Hwy 138
Just outside Crater Lake National Park
Miles: 22
Trip: 1003

Spent the morning eating Mom's homemade monkey bread (warm from the Mazama store microwave, thank you technology) and escaping from/enjoying Crater Lake's unique brand of town vortex. The four-mile not-graded-for-stock trail up to Rim Village was an invigorating wake-up hike, but then we were trapped by the Rim's fully stocked store (with similar products as Mazama, all priced 50% higher) for a full hour.

I made a decidedly impulse buy of a $40 solar charger to fuel my iPod, shipped to me from home with love and a dead battery. I really believe having fresh music (rather than the same eight songs I've had cycling in my head for 1000 miles) will amp me up to a new level of hiking. Just the 30 minutes of bluegrass and showtunes I was able to wring out of the iPod today, helped me power up the hills. If this solar charger works, it could be my smartest purchase yet. If not...a very expensive pack ornament.

Getting a huge water yogi (a yogi is a favor or freebie given by a non-hiker, usually without the hiker making an out-right request) from Hotshot's friend was welcome. He drove something like 4 hours to drop off six 5-gallon jugs of water here at Hwy 138, and hang out with Hotshot. That's friendship - and great luck for us! It does feel slightly like cheating, but then I think: Who wrote down rules? We're all playing our own game out here.

"The unexpected and incredible belong in the world. Only then is life whole." - Carl Jung

Shaggy says:

     Crater Lake was actually probably one of my favorite National Parks yet. I suppose I was not expecting much, a big over-hyped lake. But I found much more. We walked along the rim for 7 miles. It was very peaceful and relaxing. Also the tourist watching was endless.
   We spent the morning leisurely, ate a big breakfast at the gift shop. Started hiking at 9. Got to Rim Village at 11. Left at one in the afternoon. 6 days of food and 7 liters of water. We are in a large, 26 mile waterless stretch. Luckily a young lady named Hot Shot had a friend who is bringing us water.
   We are at highway 138 with Hot Shot and Snausage. Good times. I love this trail. 

Rim of Crater Lake.

Wizard Island - a volcano within a volcano!

Another rim shot (buh-dum-bum)

This snow was beautiful and tantalizing, with how dry the trail was.

August 11, 2012 - What's in a Trail Name

Day 56
Mazama Village Campground
Crater Lake National Park
Miles: 23
Trip: 981

A very tiring and busy day; even the flat 23 miles seemed to drag on forever. And when I say flat, I mean football field flat - I can see the trail, level, for at least 100 yards. The forest is very pretty though, thick with fir and hemlock and pine, and carpeted with perfumed, silvery lupine. Even with all the lush scenery, by the last five miles I was ready to be out of the woods and in a restaurant eating a giant cheeseburger. Which I did, along with lots of other junk food from the Mazama Village store.

We also picked up our packages - tons more food there, including delicious birthday treats from home (Mom, your monkey bread is even better than Schatz) and almost enough food to get us all the way to Bend. I'm getting more excited about stretching out our leg to Bend - walking 160 miles without stopping for resupply. It could even force me to carry a more reasonable amount of food. If I feel under-supplied, that means I probably have just enough.

We've met so many hikers in the last two days, maybe more than we've met since Kennedy Meadows! Hotshot and Snausage (a forest fire-fighter and salami-making chef, respectively) seem like fun, laid-back people. The rest of the crew in Mazama are nice too, but if I don't see them again there's no way I'll remember that many names. Since trail names usually describe some quirk of a hiker's personality - although this doesn't mean trail names are unique - they are easier to remember than a parade of Johns, Staceys and Laurens. Still, this Grolar Bear is getting close to overload. Whatever our names, trail or birth, sitting around a campfire laughing with a bunch of goofy, sarcastic hikers makes me hope that some of them end up in our campsite more often.

(No pictures today...sorry)

Shaggy says:

The terrain today proved to be easy and we had over 23 miles in by 4 pm. We were motivated to get to the park and eat at the all you can eat pizza buffet. We walked with several other hikers today. In Mazama Village there are at least 13 hikers. Kind of a party on the PCT.
   We ate, we drank, we resupplied our 6-7 days of food. Tomorrow we will hike on to Bend. I am exhausted! 

August 10, 2012 - Pancakes, Beer and other Relief

Day 55
Near Seven Lakes Basin
Sky Lakes Wilderness
Elev: 6900 ft
Miles: 26
Trip: 958

Today was full of relief. My ankle felt a lot better; not 100% but not as painful as yesterday. Another relief was the cold, pure springs we drank from, such a welcome change from the chlorine tablet-treated creek water and rusty-tasting well water we've been drinking (I know - complain, complain, complain. The people we met were a relief as well, after leaving behind so many hikers by jumping up to Seiad Valley. Carpenter and Creeper, a couple we met way back in Sierra City, camped near us last night and caught us later on the trail.

Shaggy was relieved to hear that Carpenter (along with many others) hadn't conquered the Pancake Challenge in Seiad Valley. The diner there challenges hikers (or anyone equally dumb and hungry) to eat five one-pound pancakes in one sitting. Champions receive their gluttonous breakfast free and get their picture on the diner's Wall of Fame. Shaggy had planned to challenge his stomach and win, until our giardia episode challenged our entire digestive system - and we lost. So, deprived of the chance to try, he feared running into someone who would brag about how easy the Pancake Challenge was. Luckily, we found only the defeated. Carpenter (who finished 2 pancakes) told us the pancakes weighed well over a pound each, and our new friend Hotshot said that even with several pancake-purging bathroom visits (allowable under the Challenge rules) she could only finish about 3 pancakes. I say something smells like a sweet scam...

The relief continues: the north side of this ridge reminded me of the Sierras, with bright, scrappy wildflowers and rock-strewn meadows. The spring-fed creek next to camp is something Sierra-like too. Then there's the best relief of all: finally being done with our Flagyl meds and getting to drink the birthday beers that Andrew has been carrying in his pack for 9 days. That's an extra 48 ounces for 140 miles - that's love.

"If you wait for the perfect moment when it is all safe and assured, the moment may never arrive. Mountains will never be climbed, races won, nor lasting happiness achieved."

Shaggy says:

   Today was a lot of fun. It always goes well with a good night sleep. Last night I slept so well. We were close to a highway, but very close to aa raging creek. The white noise  produced was perfect for sleeping.
   We saw Creeper and Carpenter today, along with Hotshot and Snausage. It was great meeting some new people along the journey today.
   The terrain was extremely mellow. It felt like a walk in the park. Very pretty though. Refreshing to be in a wilderness area again. Yesterday we crossed about 30 roads, some dirt, some paved. Today we crossed zero. Its very refreshing to find places without roads, cars, people, shopping malls.
     We really enjoyed seeing Devil's mountain today, and walking the ridge around it. It was so beautiful as the sun was setting. We found snow on the north side of the ridge which was an excellent combination for our beers we carried for so very long. It was like another birthday celebration for Lauren. We ended up hiking 26 miles today, not bad.
   We have 21 miles to Crater Lake tomorrow. I am very excited to see another park I have never seen before. Should be fun.

We're getting closer! (Remember, Andrew and I didn't start in Mexico...but we're about at our halfway point!)

This is very nice trail through lava. A not very nice trail through lava is...well, I didn't feel like taking pictures of those.

I was smitten with these flowers.

Straight out of a Dr. Seuss book!

August 9, 2012 - A Peek at the Good Life

Day 54
Just off Hwy 140, near Fish Lake Resort
Elev: 5200
Miles: 27
Trip: 932

A morning in the glamorous life of a Thru-Hiker...

5:45 am - Wake up under dawn sky. Sit up and look around blearily for 5-7 minutes. Still groggy from being jolted from sleep four hours earlier by giant ant chomping on my shoulder. Sleeping without tent is overrated.
5:55 am - Dress and pack as much as possible without emerging completely from sleeping bag. Comment  to hiking partner on yet another amazing sunrise, inquire after quality of his sleep and offer thoughts on upcoming terrain. Pass copious and loud gas - no longer embarrassing, merely an amusing and smelly part of life. Sleeping without a tent does have some advantages.
6:15 am - Heave pack off of ground cloth, pack sleeping bag and evaluate possible bathroom sites. After making sure to choose a tree/bush far from the trail (no matter how early it is - dawn hikers can ruin a relaxing morning pee), get prepped for breakfast.
6:30 am - Pour into pot one trail baggie of granola, nuts and protein powder. Add instant coffee and enough water to moisten. Eat with relish (unless protein powder is of the strawberry variety - then eat with resignation). Rinse pot and drink rinse water. Brush teeth - swallow.
6:50 am - Remove excess layers of clothing, check that pockets contain day's supply of candy, maps and knife. Pack remaining gear and hoist pack on back, wondering how much of said gear I could live without for the sake of a lighter pack.
7:00 am - Hike on, adjusting pack straps for at least 45 minutes before settling into the hiking groove.

Shaggy says:

    I don't think sleeping under the stars is for us. We tried again last night, but between the mosquitoes and ants, we did not sleep much. I was exhausted when it was time to get up, Lauren said the same.
   The miles went by slowly and fast at the same time. We hiked over 27 miles somehow. Only saw 5 other hikers today.
   My back was killing me at the end of the day, but Lauren gave me a back rub, how lucky am I?
   I have carried 4 beers that I bought for Lauren's birthday, over 120 miles now. We have been taking medicine for the stomach bug though, and can't drink alcohol until the pills are gone. Tomorrow we will celebrate with a beer at the end of the day. We are both excited to see Crater Lake.
   Wow, I am completely exhausted.

August 8, 2012 - Oregon is Like Oatmeal

Day 53
Hilltop, east of Hyatt Lake
Elev: 5500
Miles: 24
Trip: 905

No matter how rough a day has been, how hard the miles have felt, a good meal and a beautiful sunset can make it all feel worthwhile. Not that today was really all that rough: rolling terrain through a dry fir and cedar forest, nothing all that challenging or remarkable. So far Oregon seems to me like a good bowl of oatmeal: satisfying and comforting but not usually something I'd get excited about. I'm sure there will be some show-stoppers on the way to Washington, but for the moment I'm grateful for the soft ground and gentle slopes.

Just as the giardia is quieting down (still a few days of meds to go), my knees start crying for attention. My brother Joe was right - everything starts falling apart after 30! The knees are worrisome, though. First it was as if something down there was out of place, then some uncomfortable popping with every step, then some pain and the always-ominous swelling. I'll try wrapping it tomorrow (with my bandanna, since I stupidly forgot an ACE bandage) and being gentle on the downhills. At this rate, will I ever get my 30-mile day?

Shaggy says:

    It was a chilly morning and we both woke up feeling pretty refreshed. For some reason I did feel like the day dragged on. The scenery was okay, but not like what we have seen recently. We are getting into a bit more of a green tunnel. Its still super beautiful, but perhaps a different beauty than what is found on other parts of this trail.
   We did not see any other thru-hikers today. Did meet a few folks out for the day, and a few on a week long hike. It is so weird to get in and out of bubbles of people on this trail. Also strange to think about all the hikers behind us. Are they still hiking? Its hard to know.
   We managed to hike 24 miles today. Not terrible considering we still are not feeling completely 100% yet. We will get back into it though. I am exhausted tonight for some reason. Time to get some rest.

Redneck totems lined a private property next to the trail. This one says, "If you can read this you are in range." Very classy.

More cheeriness from the welcoming committee.

Believe it or not, some locals did not roll out the red carpet for hikers. Luckily they vented their prejudice on poor PCT trail markers instead of poor PCT hikers...

Giant fava bean? That's my best guess...

I swear I heard this tree speak as I hiked by. It sounded a lot like, "Nomnomnomnom..."

August 7, 2012 - Showered with Cash

Day 52
Saddle between Pilot Rock and I-5 tow Ashland
Elev: 5200 ft
Miles: 20
Trip: 881

 I would have said you can't put a price on feeling clean, but Callahan's Lodge disagrees, putting that price at exactly $21. For $15 I got a hot shower (with fluffy towel, lotion and soft robe) and for $6 I got to see the washing machine turn my clothes into thick brown soup then rinse it all (maybe) away. There are no showers at Crater Lake, so I justified the expense by calculating that I'm actually paying $15 for 15 days worth of showers. It just so happens I only get to take one shower in 15 days.

Our plan now is to go straight from Crater Lake to Bend without resupplying - a total of 160 trail miles. That seems daunting, especially when just the 100 miles of food that I have is giving me back spasms. But I do want to cut down on our town time - save money, save time and get a fuller "wilderness" experience. Andrew thinks we can do it, so I'll keep trusting him. He hasn't let me down yet.

"The child's philosophy is not to despise a bubble because it bursts, but to immediately get to work blowing another one."

Shaggy says:

   Today was pretty good. I felt really strong again. Lauren was feeling strong too. We made it all the way to Callahan's Lodge, some 16 miles by 2 pm. All our packages that we sent ourselves arrived. Lauren got new shoes, socks, and gaiters. I got chlorine tablets and a kilt to hike in. Never thought I would own a kilt. But it is extremely comfortable. Allows air to circulate, and should last much longer than the running shorts I seem to destroy every 500-800 miles.
   We enjoyed a good meal at Callahan's lodge too. Its really a great place to refuel, right beside the trail. I think a person could really hike this trail without ever getting more than a couple miles off the trail to resupply. That would save a lot of time and money. Time seems to be the most important of all though.
   I hiked with a man named Gourmet today for a few miles. We talked about how coming to the end of the trail has different meanings for different people. For some, its exciting to finish the trail. They have families, loved ones, apartments, and jobs to go back to. For others, they want to drag this experience out. They don't have much to go back to, or perhaps nowhere to call home. I peersonally am  in the middle. I am excited to start a new chapter of my life. Not looking forward to finding a job, getting into a grind of life. I am excited to start something new, once again.

At Callahan's, sorting through our food package. My sad face could be for many things: we'd just paid $15 for those towels and the hot water that goes with them; my food was distressingly heavy, even without the bread package that had molded in the mail; and my new shoes hadn't arrived in the mail (they finally arrived right after I ate a delicious dinner that wiped this frown clean off)

Pilot Rock, a popular destination for local climbers.

A beautiful open-air campsite, and one of our last. Several giant-ant bites to the arms and loud mosquitoes in the ear made us question our commitment to "cowboy camping", romantic as it is.

August 6, 2012 - Old Gas and Young Ambition

Day 51
Siskiyou Gap, next to dirt road
Elev: 6000 ft
Miles: 25
Trip: 861

For almost the entire day, I felt like my old hiker self. I was eager to hike in the morning - not as cheerful as Andrew, but eager. The miles came easily and I even caught myself enjoying the uphills again. It was too much too soon, as I found out after 22 miles. Then I got a big painful reminder of why I'd taken five days off. Cramps, bloating, nausea - not sensations you want while wearing a hip belt. Luckily, I happen to hike with the most generous and resourceful thru-hiker out here, and he immediately dropped his pack and went searching for water when he saw me clutching my stomach. Or maybe he just wanted to escape my smellier symptoms...

I'm thankful I felt good enough to enjoy the amazing trail magic at the Cali-Oregon border. A thru-hiker and his two young daughters had set up a little camp on a dirt road, welcoming us to Oregon with noisemakers, grilled hot dogs and cold drinks. This trail magic was unique not only for the noisy celebration: we got to meet another young thru-hiker. At 12, Sunshine hiked the PCT last year with her dad Balls (our trail-magician) during one of the highest snow years on record. Sunshine and Balls also just finished hiking the Appalachian trail - roughly 2,180 miles in three months. I can't imagine growing up like that; learning that your body is capable of hiking 30-plus miles in a day (which she did, several times), meeting people of all different background doing amazing things and experiencing their amazement at your own feats. Must do wonders for a young girl's self esteem.

I also got to witness the meeting of two children of the trail. While handing out party hats and cold pop, Sunshine was eagerly awaiting the arrival of 13-year-old Chili, a boy hiking with his dad (both of whom had also done the AT). He got to Oregon shortly after us and I have to admit I was fascinated by these two kids. As a teacher and a studier of all human behavior, I got a big kick out of watching their adorably awkward meeting and hearing them swap hiking stories. Both intend to hike the Continental Divide Trail (considered by some to be the most difficult of the Big Three long trails) and earn the title Youngest Triple-Crowner. I'd love to follow their stories - what happens when a trail child becomes a trail adult? Where do you find a new challenge after achieving so much?

Shaggy says:

    Today was much better than yesterday. Maybe it was the first solid stool I had in a week, maybe it was entering Oregon, maybe it was the trail magic at the border, or maybe all the delicious spring water today. Whatever it was, today was great.
   We woke to a beautiful sunrise, both felt well rested. We had gone to sleep at 8 pm last night, so we had gotten another good nights' sleep. The trail seemed to know what we needed today, easy miles. Somehow we cranked out 26 of them today. Both of us felt great too.
   The California/Oregon border was a bit unexciting for us. Neither of us had actually walked from Mexico this year, and we were both mostly excited to leave our sickness behind and start a new chapter of this journey. We spent about 3 minutes at the border and then marched on.
   Half a mile further we saw a sign that read "welcome to Oregon Trail Magic". Then we heard  people cheering. It was Balls and his two daughters, Sunshine, and Butterfly. They gave us soda,  hot dogs, twizzlers, and good company. Balls and daughter Sunshine hiked the PCT last year, AT this year, and plan to do the CDT next year. This would make Sunshine the youngest to hike the triple crown, at just 13 years old. Chili and Pepper were hiking near us all day too. Chili is just 13 years old, and has hiked the AT last year and working on the PCT this year. The father-son duo will also attempt the CDT next year. Exciting and amazing to see kids so young out here.
     I ate 4 hot dogs, drank a soda, ate some chips, and that's when I knew my stomach was getting back together. Lauren's stomach is still on its way back together, but we as a whole are feeling stronger everyday. Good day.

The rumors were true! People told us there'd be supreme trail magic at the border...they were so right.

Blankets in the shade, cold beverages, snacks and snazzy party wear. Everything a hiker could want (that's Chili and Butterfly in the back. Butterfly is Balls' other daughter - Sunshine is on the far right)

Oregon looks pretty fine so far - if you don't mind roads and terraced hills (which I don't - much)

And the wildflowers continue!

We have arrived. Let the big miles begin!

August 5, 2012 - Respect the Storm Gods

Day 50
Ridge above Cook and Green passes
Elev: 6000 ft
Miles: 17
Trip: 836

Blow, wind, blow! That's what I cried just a few minutes ago, nestled in the tent with Andrew while a long-brewing storm roared its way toward us. Andrew was not amused by my bravado and chastised me for taunting the weather gods. I understand his trepidation, since he's the one who has to re-erect the tent if it blows over. But this is the first big storm we've been in, and the adrenaline thrill feels good after a slow, struggling hike. After our first two miles today, I felt as weak and spent as I usually do after hiking 25 miles. Obviously I'm not totally recovered yet. We've talked to several other PCTers who have gotten sick recently, even a few who purify every water source. It's entirely possible that nasty bugs other than giardia are responsible for our illness, so maybe what Andrew and I picked up isn't water-related at all. The mystery may never be solved, but I'm shopping for a new water filter regardless of the diagnosis. Now for a good night's sleep while the thunder crashed overhead. I do respect the storm gods.

"Every day is an adventure if you make it one."

Shaggy says:

Today was tough. I am so sick of being sick and tired. Today really felt like work. We worked hard too. I honestly did not have much fun today. I was exhausted and it was hot. I don't feel like writing anymore. Its storming right now. Only pumped out 18 miles today, and it was hard. Sleep 

A tranquil bay of clouds in the valley is a calming sight early in the morning.

I don't know what causes trees to grow like this, but I was intrigued. And check out that ominous sky!

Lilypad Lake. One of my favorite pictures because of the dozens of shades of green.

Another bizarre pom-pom pine. The rest of the tree looked dead, but a growth of healthy branches grew like a tumor on top.