Thursday, July 5, 2012

June 20, 2012 - My Highest High

Comfort Inn in Bishop, CA
Todays Miles: 22
Trip Mileage: 96

Another amazing day, thanks to a pair of feet that have finally (hopefully) accepted that this trip is happening whether they like it or not. We woke up this morning at  5:30 and hiked merrily toward Forrester Pass. Well, Andrew hiked merrily. I shoved my hands in my pockets and let my poles drag behind me, trying to hike myself warm. It's hard to stay uninspired with the high Sierras jutting up around glassy alpine lakes, and a deliriously happy, scruffy hiker guy singing Disney musicals in front of you. Andrew is the best motivational hiking partner ever.

I'm not a talented enough writer to to describe Forrester Pass, or anything that came after. Just be glad I took pictures. I couldn't believe Forrester Pass was Forrester Pass as we approached, just a jagged knot on a sharp ridge. But that's where the switchbacks led us, well beyond the point I thought a mountainside could accommodate a trail. Trail builders are a remarkable breed. So are the hikers that hike those trails, for that matter. The feeling of elation I had after reaching the top is indescribable. I realized that I was a) standing at the highest point point I'd ever been at, and the highest point I'd ever be on the PCT; and b) the scene was so breathe-taking I, I felt no pain anywhere in my body. That phenomenon was repeated several times on today's hikes, hence the 22 miles and two passes I was able to achieve without crumpling. Nature's magnificence can be a very effective pain reliever.

So we hiked over Kearsarge Pass (a treat we get to repeat after our day in town) into Onion Valley Campground, where an enterprising and entertaining trail watcher named Paul gave us a ride to Independence. That's where we crossed paths again with Challenger and Just-A-Test, who were easily convinced to join us on the bus to Bishop, land of Schatz Bakery and untold other glories.

Shaggy says:

We woke up early. The sunrise was amazing. Camping up high is the way to go, no bugs, and amazing views. We sang songs the first mile, I was stuck on some great Disney songs, the bear necessities in particular.
  Forrester Pass was a good workout. Its the highest spot we will ever hit on the PCT, and is really beautiful. Last time I was there, I glissaded down the other side. This time we had one patch of snow, and it was about 10 feet long. No way to get lost, or even off trail. One really nice thing about the lack of snow is the flowers. On the top of Forrester these little blue flowers were intoxicating. I could not get enough of the smell!
  After Forrester was the long, slow decent into the valley below. So beautiful though. Lauren decided about this point that she wanted to hike over Kearsarge Pass, and down into Onion Valley, trying to get to Bishop tonight. We made it too! 22 miles, 2 passes, amazing views all day.
  We caught a ride down to Independence very quickly, there was a car leaving, just as I reached the bottom. Then we caught the 5 PM bus to Bishop. Challenger and Just a Test joined us, and are staying in the same hotel. We ate dinner together and now may all take a zero tomorrow. I love Bishop... cheesebread is amazing. It is so hot down here though, probably close to 100. Time to rest.

"I notice well that one step from the habitual path leads irresistibly in a new direction."

The sun crept slowly over the mountain. Very slowly...my hands stayed in my pockets until I reached the switchbacks of Forrester Pass.

Look at the bottom left corner of this picture. Now slowly look up until you see a VERY tiny black  speck in the rocks. That's Andrew. And that crevice he's walking toward is Forrester Pass. For reals.

I'm often in awe of the work that goes into building these mountain trails, but this plaque gave me a new appreciation. Thank you, Donald I. Downs.

Sky Pilot became my new favorite flower because it grew only at the highest, rockiest passes and smelled like sweet cotton candy.

The reflection of Forrester Pass looks almost as bad-ass as the pass itself.

A very unusual sight: Forrester Pass with almost no snow. This is normally a heart-pounding crossing of a steep snow slope, one few people would attempt at 7am like we could this year.

Imagine blasting and scraping away this trail. I'm very thankful.

Andrew finds a rockbar and shows off his trail-building skills. We'll make our own trail to Canada!

My highest elevation ever, until I conquer Whitney on my next visit.

Suncups! So glad we didn't have to hike through any of these.

Once we crossed Forrester Pass, we were in another world. I love this world.

Bullfrog Lake, en route to Kearsarge Pass. This may have been our hardest, and my favorite, day of hiking in the High Sierras.

View from Kearsarge Pass. Thankfully, we got to do this trail again on the way back from Independence (Kearsarge isn't on the official PCT)

Shaggy leading the way over Kearsarge.

A jeweled tarn on the other side of Forrester.

Coming down the Pass into Onion Valley. Yes, you want to go there.

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