June 25, 2012 - Frozen Frogs and Fatigued Feet

Day 11
McClure Meadows
Elevation: 9600 ft
Miles: 17
Trip: 164

The Sierras continue to kick my butt - and every other body part involved in walking. Today's hike to Muir Pass (and Muir Cabin!) wasn't steep but it was long. I think I prefer a pass like Pinchot or Forrester, where the elevation comes at you all at once; you pump hard for a while and you're at the top. Forrester was my favorite, partly because it was my first of the Sierra passes. The others get muddled in my memory, but Forrester will always be sharp in my mind. Next time I do this section, I'll be in shape from starting at the Mexican border, and able to enjoy the scenery without wheezing so much. At one of the lakes on the way to Muir, we saw dozens of frogs - leopard frogs, I think. How do they live in such cold water? I've heard of frogs being frozen in water, then thawed and re-animated. Amazing! I'm not surprised that landmarks around here have names like "Evolution" Creek and "Darwin" Pass. Just walking past the lakes gives the impression we're in some pre-historic land. We also saw a pika today, only the second of the trip. I would have expected to see them all over, overseeing the Sierras like their Northern cousins in the Beartooths. Maybe the warm spring affected their population negatively somehow...we haven't even seen any of their haystacks.

We'll get to Muir Trail Ranch early tomorrow, maybe even before noon. Another 12-miles-before-12 day! Then a sublime soak in the hot springs - with a beer we sent in our resupply package. Heaven. I admit I do need a break too. My feet aren't used to this much abuse. But I've hiked over 15 miles most days so I know my pain comes for a reason. In another week, I bet I'll be hiking twenty-plus days without a problem. Maybe two weeks - when we're out of the Sierras. Hopefully my shoes can handle the miles until then - and my feet can handle the shoes.

As much as I gripe about the difficulties and frustrations of this trail, I wouldn't want to be anywhere else, with anyone else. Andrew is the only person I could stand for this amount of time, and definitely the only person who could stand me.

Shaggy says:

The climb up Muir Pass was amazing. We started early again and made it to the top before 10 am. There was no snow, all the way up. It was so windy on top that the hut was extremely inviting. We joined four other hikers and ate lunch in the hut.
   I spent some time catching frogs in one of the lakes today. I am pretty sure they were northern leopard frogs. They  had gone extinct some time ago in the Sierras. The reason being pollution. Frogs are very sensitive to changes in there water. They were reintroduced though, about three years ago, and are thriving in the areas they were reintroduced to. I personally am in full support of any species willing to help lower the population of mosquitoes.
   I also spent time catching some fish today. I caught 4 with my bare hands, all beautiful rainbow trout, all too small for us to eat... oh well. Still fun to know I can do it.
    I love the Sierras so much. It is also a good feeling to just walk all day. Not a care in the world. Just left leg, then right leg. We stopped after 17 miles today. Laurens feet were tired, and I craved a dip in the Evolution Creek. The water was warm, it felt so good to wash out my nasty shorts and boxers. Also felt good to rinse myself on a secluded beach along the creek. This is really livin.
   Tomorrow we will pick up our resupply at Muir Trail Ranch. Very excited to find out what all we put in our bucket. The one thing we do remember is two Lewis and Clark Brewery beers. It feels so good not resupplying in a  town. We won't be able to spend any money, nothing to buy there. Instead we will get the stuff we sent ourselves, load it in our packs and head out. There are also some hot springs in the area we plan to check out.
"Everyone should carefully observe which way his heart draws him, and then choose that way with all his strength." -Hasidic saying

The trail leading to Muir Pass. It went up quite a bit after this.

Harassing wildlife, a great way to make sure this fish stays far, far away from humans in the future.

Lucky for this golden trout, he was way too small to eat (plus I think he's protected by law...)

Inside the John Muir hut, roof view. A pretty amazing feat of architecture, I think.

Getting creative with the camera.

The yellow ninja moves too fast for cameras to capture!

The wind outside howled so loudly we didn't want to go outside again, but of course the trail called to us.

How neat is that?

Wildflowers on Muir Pass. It just never gets old.

More wildlife harassment. Just helping build their fear of humans...

These frogs were able to survive because no invasive trout ate their eggs. Bad trout!

You know you want a pair of these shoes. But not everyone can pull of this level of cool...

This can be my home. Really, I don't need anything else.

One happy yellow-bellied marmot, soaking up the sun.

Good thing the winters are so harsh, or there would be McCabins all over this place.

This is what happens when hikers don't eat cheeseburgers and icecream for a week. Scary stuff.

June 24, 2012 - Miles, Not Smiles

Day 10
La Conte Canyon, along Middle Fork Kings River
Miles: 19
Trip Miles: 147

Another day of miles, marmots and magnificence. We approached Mather Pass separately, me taking lots of pictures in the soft morning light and Andrew moving quickly now, without my weight slowing him down. It feels good to be hauling all my own weight again - something I haven't done since our first day. I noticed it slowing me down today, but didn't really have much discomfort. My feet seem to know when we've hit the 15-mile maker and start protesting any more hiking. I know they'll toughen up and take more mileage without complaint, but that might take a little while. By the time we're out of the Sierras and in the Northern Cali desert, I'll be cruising. Who wants to go fast through the Sierras anyway?

Last night I started feeling a little homesick. I didn't think I'd miss my family until at least a few weeks in, but I had the urge to talk to my parents, brothers, friends, anyone else who knows me well. Being with only one person for days on end can be a challenge, even when those two people get along as well as Andrew and I. I'm so happy to be hiking with him, but I miss talking to my girls about things he doesn't understand: gossip, female body issues, hair emergencies...intellectual stuff. I'm sure we'll meet other hikers who will relieve the pressure of being everything to another person. It would have helped to start in Campo, get to know the rest of the 2012 PCT class. There are advantages to hiking in the desert, even if it means putting up with dehydration and cactus spines. Adversity brings people together.

Tomorrow we'll do another 18-19 miles, or push on to a spot nearer Muir Trail Ranch - a 23 mile trip. I did 22 to Independence, and in un-supportive shoes. Shouldn't I be able to hike further now that I have shoes resembling blue marshmallow Peeps?

Shaggy says:

Got the much needed sleep last night. I always try to find a site that has many pine needles, nice and soft, even for my well used z-rest. Every time I look at Lauren's, two inch thick thermarest I am slightly jealous. I am considering buying one in South Lake Tahoe. But for now I make sure we have a soft spot to sleep!
   We woke up early and were hiking by 7 am. It was so cold! Lauren has a gadget that told us it was 33 when we started hiking. But the uphill climb to Mather Pass had us sweating in no time.
   I decided to hike at my own pace and meet Lauren at the top of Mather. It felt so good to be outside early in the day, headed up a pass that I am fond of. It looks like it did in August a couple years ago. Nothing like the June of 2006. I still love the pass, so beautiful all the way up.
    The descent down to Palisades Lakes felt so good. When at the lakes we took a long break. I played in the creek trying to catch fish with my bare hands. I had my hands on more than one good sized fish, but they slipped away. Hopefully one of these days I will snag some trout for lunch.
   This is really livin though. Sitting on a shore of a crystal clear lake. The outlet cascades over a cliff, over a thousand feet before it begins to level off. The trail does the same in a series of short steep switchbacks, eventually leading us to the Middle Fork of Kings River. I cooked a quick dinner of a Mountainhouse I bought on clearance a few months ago. It was  cheap and tastes great, but contains 37 grams of fiber, 142% of your daily value. Needless to say, it offers gas that is almost painful sometimes.
   Luckily we walked another three and a half miles to a beautiful campsite along the river. Some of the gas escaped, some will escape throughout the night. I suppose the smells may really be a test for our relationship. But hey, she farts too!
   We made 18 miles today, and it felt great. Happy to be here. We will head up Muir Pass tomorrow. I cant wait!

The trail goes ever on and on...

Wouldn't you follow this guy into the mountains?

Just a cool rock, nothing more or less.

Fearless lizard facing down my hiking pole.

This was the day of waterfalls, and this was the best one.

Zero is easily impressed by things larger than him, but these shooting stars really are twice the size of Montana's.

WATERSLIDE!!

So tempting, but I couldn't find an exit from this pool that did not involve crashing into solid rock.

People pay money for miniature versions of this waterfall...

Marmots rule in the Sierras.

June 23, 2012 - Trail Pains

Day 9
Clearing near Pinchot Pass, just before South Fork Kings River
Elevation: 10700 ft
Today's Miles: 18
Trip Miles: 127

More delicious pass views today. The mountains between Glen and Pinchot Pass are so different from what we've seen so far; dark red veined with cream, black streaked with white...some crumbling and some looking like they just rose from the Earth's crust. I couldn't help ogling them, sometimes tripping over rocks on the trail, themselves exotic-looking and colorfully patterned.

We started from Rae Lakes at 7:30, a little later than our usual time but still within my range of respectability. I think Shepard (a 17-year-old speedster who camped with us) would have hiked with us, but he got cold waiting for me to pack my bag. He's probably ten miles from us by now, over Mather Pass. His question yesterday, of why the girl of girl-boy hiking couples is usually hiking in front, amused my but also brought up some insecurities. I laughed because it seemed so obvious to me: the girl is usually (not always) slower. If the guy hiked in front, you wouldn't see them together! That's how it is with us anyway, and it can cause tension. I take more breaks, more pictures and more time to look around than Andrew. He focuses on making miles, getting to our destination, pushing himself. I know he still appreciated the scenery and being where he is, but his drive to always move forward tends to clash with my desire to soak it all in and capture every possible memory. But I know that the fact he's out here with me means that the compromises we make are worth making, to be out here together.

Walking along the Woods Creek might have been my favorite non-pass stretch so far, The solid rock chutes with churning pools, the wide cascades, the sapphire color of the water...it all did a great job of occupying my thoughts as we made a gradual climb. The day went by so fast, I was surprised to find out how many miles we'd gone. My feet knew the truth though; although the Hoka have removed my arch pain (miraculously!) the last five miles left my ankles and toes complaining. But I'll take that over aching arched any day.

Shaggy says:

Yesterday while Lauren enjoyed a polar plunge in Rae Lakes, I walked around and saw thousands of fish rising. I really wished I had my fly rod. I found a PBR on the side of the lake. Looked like it had been there since last year, the colors were all faded. I drank it with dinner. Amazing way to end a great day.
   This morning came too soon. I did not sleep the best, and it was chilly, about 35 degrees at 6 am. We were on the trail quickly though, and enjoyed the amazing views on our descent.
  A National Park service employee stopped us on the way down, asking for our permit. We were trying to hurry past him so we would not have to show the permit which was buried in my pack. After unpacking, he said he wouldn't have asked if he knew it would be so much work. He looked at the permit, and sent us on our way.
   The downhill today to Woods Creek was so smooth. We made great time and had a good time chatting with everyone out for the weekend.
   The climb up to Pinchot wore us both out. 8 miles to the top. It was very pretty though, the colors of the rocks are amazing up here.
   We are both hiking about the same pace now. I am still carrying a little bit of her weight, but really glad we are hiking about the same speed.
   Today we are camped about a half mile before South Fork of the Kings River. We were both exhausted and need a good night's sleep.
  I am excited to climb Mather Pass tomorrow. Its one of my favorite passes and tomorrow will be the third time I will climb it.
   Dinner consisted of dehydrated spaghetti, sauce, dried venison, fresh sierra onions, tabasco sauce, cheddar cheese, and a cheese roll. Who said we were roughin it? That's good eatin'.
   17 miles today and I am sleepy.

June 22, 2012 - Sticker Shock

Day 8
Rae Lakes, below Glen Pass
Elevation: 10538 ft
Today's Miles: 13
Trip Miles:109

Our zero day yesterday meant I was too busy to journal, but here are the highlights: Breakfast at Schatz Bakery, a theme park of baked goods, got day-old bargains on apple-raisin-almond monkey bread (even better than Mom used to make - sorry Mom) and resupply bagels. Fruit tart blew my mind while talking with Just-A-Test and Challenger. Hit the danger zone of outfitters and goodie stores. Challenger spent $250 on gear, I semi-restrained myself to buy only underwear and socks - exciting times. Then the real danger: discovered Hoka OneOne shoes at running store, Short story: I later paid an undisclosed amount for the dorkiest running shoes in existence, But they proved themselves on Glen Pass today: NO major foot pain, almost running down the trail. Hope they stand up to linger miles. Had my first grocery store resupply and choked. Bought too much food, spent too much money. Hope to get more streamlined in the choosing of boxed meals and candy. Tried updating my blog on hotel computer - ridiculous. Slow connection, and I'm finding that these pages hold a surprisingly high volume of words. Took an hour to type 3 entries, no pictures added. Not worth the stress, plus I missed out on hot pizza with Andrew. Still ate it, cold, while chatting and laughing with lovely hiking partner, good friend.

Set out early this morning for Independence after too little sleep for me (still not streamlined in other areas of prepping and packing) and right to the trailhead. Andrew was anxious to put distance between us and the road - even skipped trail magic! I was grumpy because of that, but it's hard to feel much negativity around here. Rae Lakes feels like a fantasy world, like Jurassic Park meets Avatar. I swam for fifteen minutes or more in the frigid water, feeling euphoric to be a floating island surrounded by mountains and sky.

Shaggy says:

Yesterday we took the day off in Bishop. Though we had only hiked 6 days and 100 miles, we were in need of some rest. We ate really well and spent time with Challenger and Test. It was a really good day, and we both got a lot done. Lauren bought some new shoes with a ton of cushion hoping they will help with her feet problems. I ate a ton of baked goods from Schats bakery, and a watermelon.
   Today we were both super happy to be getting back to the trail. We took the 7 am shuttle back to Independance. We shipped a good amount of stuff home today, including gloves and thermal bottoms, all an effort to lighten up. We got a ride up to Kearsarge Pass in good time, but the guy asked for $5 for each of us. By this point we had met Sheppard, an 18 year old hiker, headed back to the trail too. If I had known it was $5 for each of us, i would have turned the ride down, as there was plenty of traffic headed up that way anyway. Oh well, it worked out.
    The trail up to  Kearsarge Pass was very busy. Passed a lot of hikers headed down, and many headed up. The climb wasn't bad either. But the further up we went, the more smoke we started to see. Not sure where its from, but it is smokey up here, not terribly, still a little worrisome. The pass seemed easy and felt good. The temperature had dropped since a few days ago.
     Then we were on to Glen Pass. Also felt good. We are camped at Rae Lakes with our new friend Sheppard. 13 miles today. I had a lot of fun today too, with both Lauren and Sheppard. Very happy to be enjoying this amazing place with amazing people!
   Lauren seems to enjoy her new shoes. I enjoy them too! The colors are amazing and fun to see her wearing =). She is going to give me a foot massage tonight because I have helped carry her food. I am excited. I even washed my feet. 

Preventative measures for achy arches and blisters = mummy feet!

One happy, happy hiker (he also had donuts earlier)

Watermelon is the key to happiness. Cold watermelon on a hot day? Euphoria.

We're back! Kearsarge on the second go-round. Zero is officially the highest-flying penguin on Earth.

The hikers began to lose their minds early on in their journey...

Full of baked goods, in both tummy and backpack. Hence the big smiles.

"And over there is where I'll put the guest cabin, with indoor pool and sauna..."

Prettiness.

Our biggest (and only) snow crossing thus far - Glen Pass.

Love the colors in these mountains.

Rae Lake, the best swim I had on the whole trip. Like being in a beautiful snow globe - without the snow.

Possibly the dorkiest picture of me in existence. I'm just so darn excited about those shoes!

June 20, 2012 - My Highest High

Comfort Inn in Bishop, CA
Todays Miles: 22
Trip Mileage: 96

Another amazing day, thanks to a pair of feet that have finally (hopefully) accepted that this trip is happening whether they like it or not. We woke up this morning at  5:30 and hiked merrily toward Forrester Pass. Well, Andrew hiked merrily. I shoved my hands in my pockets and let my poles drag behind me, trying to hike myself warm. It's hard to stay uninspired with the high Sierras jutting up around glassy alpine lakes, and a deliriously happy, scruffy hiker guy singing Disney musicals in front of you. Andrew is the best motivational hiking partner ever.

I'm not a talented enough writer to to describe Forrester Pass, or anything that came after. Just be glad I took pictures. I couldn't believe Forrester Pass was Forrester Pass as we approached, just a jagged knot on a sharp ridge. But that's where the switchbacks led us, well beyond the point I thought a mountainside could accommodate a trail. Trail builders are a remarkable breed. So are the hikers that hike those trails, for that matter. The feeling of elation I had after reaching the top is indescribable. I realized that I was a) standing at the highest point point I'd ever been at, and the highest point I'd ever be on the PCT; and b) the scene was so breathe-taking I, I felt no pain anywhere in my body. That phenomenon was repeated several times on today's hikes, hence the 22 miles and two passes I was able to achieve without crumpling. Nature's magnificence can be a very effective pain reliever.

So we hiked over Kearsarge Pass (a treat we get to repeat after our day in town) into Onion Valley Campground, where an enterprising and entertaining trail watcher named Paul gave us a ride to Independence. That's where we crossed paths again with Challenger and Just-A-Test, who were easily convinced to join us on the bus to Bishop, land of Schatz Bakery and untold other glories.

Shaggy says:

We woke up early. The sunrise was amazing. Camping up high is the way to go, no bugs, and amazing views. We sang songs the first mile, I was stuck on some great Disney songs, the bear necessities in particular.
  Forrester Pass was a good workout. Its the highest spot we will ever hit on the PCT, and is really beautiful. Last time I was there, I glissaded down the other side. This time we had one patch of snow, and it was about 10 feet long. No way to get lost, or even off trail. One really nice thing about the lack of snow is the flowers. On the top of Forrester these little blue flowers were intoxicating. I could not get enough of the smell!
  After Forrester was the long, slow decent into the valley below. So beautiful though. Lauren decided about this point that she wanted to hike over Kearsarge Pass, and down into Onion Valley, trying to get to Bishop tonight. We made it too! 22 miles, 2 passes, amazing views all day.
  We caught a ride down to Independence very quickly, there was a car leaving, just as I reached the bottom. Then we caught the 5 PM bus to Bishop. Challenger and Just a Test joined us, and are staying in the same hotel. We ate dinner together and now may all take a zero tomorrow. I love Bishop... cheesebread is amazing. It is so hot down here though, probably close to 100. Time to rest.

"I notice well that one step from the habitual path leads irresistibly in a new direction."

The sun crept slowly over the mountain. Very slowly...my hands stayed in my pockets until I reached the switchbacks of Forrester Pass.

Look at the bottom left corner of this picture. Now slowly look up until you see a VERY tiny black  speck in the rocks. That's Andrew. And that crevice he's walking toward is Forrester Pass. For reals.

I'm often in awe of the work that goes into building these mountain trails, but this plaque gave me a new appreciation. Thank you, Donald I. Downs.

Sky Pilot became my new favorite flower because it grew only at the highest, rockiest passes and smelled like sweet cotton candy.

The reflection of Forrester Pass looks almost as bad-ass as the pass itself.

A very unusual sight: Forrester Pass with almost no snow. This is normally a heart-pounding crossing of a steep snow slope, one few people would attempt at 7am like we could this year.

Imagine blasting and scraping away this trail. I'm very thankful.

Andrew finds a rockbar and shows off his trail-building skills. We'll make our own trail to Canada!

My highest elevation ever, until I conquer Whitney on my next visit.

Suncups! So glad we didn't have to hike through any of these.

Once we crossed Forrester Pass, we were in another world. I love this world.

Bullfrog Lake, en route to Kearsarge Pass. This may have been our hardest, and my favorite, day of hiking in the High Sierras.

View from Kearsarge Pass. Thankfully, we got to do this trail again on the way back from Independence (Kearsarge isn't on the official PCT)

Shaggy leading the way over Kearsarge.

A jeweled tarn on the other side of Forrester.

Coming down the Pass into Onion Valley. Yes, you want to go there.